My grandfather recently passed away and left behind his locksmith workshop.

I’m currently going through everything and found a large collection of unused key blanks, as well as various key-cutting machines and other locksmith equipment.

He was actively working as a locksmith until around 2014–2016, so most of these key blanks are likely over 10 years old, possibly even older.

There are blanks for both car keys and regular door locks. Some of the brands I’ve found include JMA, Errebi, Orion, and Silca.

I’m not a locksmith myself, so I have no idea whether any of this still has value or if there’s even a market for these older key blanks.

Would it be worth trying to sell everything, either individually or as a bulk lot? Or would I be better off just selling it all for scrap metal?

I’d really appreciate any advice on what I should look out for, whether some of these blanks might be rare or valuable, and where I could potentially sell them.
Thanks in advance for any help!

Even the smart pro is removing some models it could previously do. The boss has procrastinated and now may be forced to do it lol.

Can anyone tell me if this lock is obstructed? The local locksmith is telling me that the brass tube in there is supposed to swing out of the way when the key hits it. All it does is prevent the key blank from entering. It almost looks like it was soldered in place, but it could just be marks from keys being blocked by it. This is the type of lock that uses ball bearings atop the pins...Any information is much appreciated thanks!

Previous locksmith did not finish rekey and left w parts. Does anyone know where we can get a Schlage keyed gate switch like in the picture. Metro wants $750 bucks for replacement. I have keyed dozens of these but don’t have any extra parts. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

I am a locksmith apprentice in California. Our company has an old hpc machine and it's depth is off, after servicing didn't work the company decided it's better to buy a new machine. We're specifically looking for something that cuts Sargent, Yale, Corbin, kaba peaks. Things of that nature. We have a few blue punches that cut schlage and even small format. I called one locksmith and he recommended the ITL 950cm. Was just curious what other locksmiths think. Thanks everyone!!!!

Hey team, this has been an issue for a bit, but after mucking about with my front door I'm feeling a bit more confident at tackling my bedroom door, it's just a spring latch but the spring seems to be broken/not working, just wondering if anyone could help guide a bit in getting it fixed.

As seen in the video, the plastic circle with a square insert is supposed to retract the latch, but clearly doesn't have any tension to do so. I'm pretty good with breaking apart and putting stuff back together but would like some guidance. Thanks team!

(Also, excuse the fingernails, I just did a dirty wash on a helldivers B-01 Tactical Armour cosplay and the wash managed to get in my gloves 😔)

A little update on my old Baldwin mortise lock, and unfortunately I’ve run into another problem.

When I went to the locksmith to buy a replacement spindle, I mentioned that the cylinders were difficult to screw into the lock body and that I had to use tools to get them in. They offered to re-tap the threads, so I brought the lock back today to have that done.

After re-tapping, the locksmith told me that the threads on my original cylinders were damaged, which was why they wouldn’t screw in properly. They recommended replacing the cylinders, but they only had one replacement available in a brass/gold finish.

Since one of my original cylinders could still be screwed in by hand, I decided to replace just the exterior cylinder and keep the original Baldwin cylinder on the inside.
The replacement cylinder isn’t a Baldwin. The locksmith said Baldwin cylinders are much more expensive. The new cylinder is also longer than the original, so they gave me a spacer ring to make up the difference.

When I got home and tried to install everything, I ran into two problems:
The spacer ring seems too large and doesn’t fit properly around the threaded portion of the new cylinder. I ended up leaving it off, but without it, the new cylinder screws in too far and leaves insufficient room for the interior cylinder.
The original interior cylinder now won’t screw in at all, even though it was possible to install it before the re-tapping.

I’m not sure what my best next step should be.
Should I just replace both cylinders with aftermarket ones? Is there a significant difference in quality or durability between original Baldwin cylinders and generic replacements?
I’d prefer to keep as much of the original hardware as possible, but I also want everything to fit and function properly.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hey guys,I have this boat to do but I’ll be honest I’m mostly automotive so I’m really not sure what this would need. Does anyone know what key blank this takes?

Anybody ever heard this guy?

https://suno.com/s/jfObPJ4vDaSUr6Hr