I just finished completely repairing mortar and replacing a horribly installed/waterproofed bilco door/stairwell here that wreaked of lazy DIY and can not afford to tackle this next discovery at this time. I do not have any sagging or wet spot under the roof from what I can see from the artic, thankfully. Is there any tips or others experience with dealing with this? our inspection unfortunately missed this. My house is a rectangle one peak 1450 square foot. I do not know the dimensions of the roof itself.

Beyond what I can glean from Yelp, Google Reviews, Angie's List (which is a dead heat), and price (nearly dead heat), and materials (identical from what I can see), how to choose? Same industry awards, same certifications, etc.

One guy suggested our roof line wasn't long enough for a full ridge vent, so would need a combo of ridge vent and...box vents? The other guy didn't mention anything about it.

This is a big spend, I don't know how to pick one vs. the other, or if there are other questions or intangibles to investigate. Or if I'm just in analysis paralysis.

I'm in the Atlanta suburbs, and the two companies are Dr Roof and Atlanta Roofing Specialists, if that matters. I have no idea where Dr. Roof went to medical school.

Our roof is being replaced with a metal roof. It is almost done and looks great. They are coming back tomorrow to finish. I’m concerned about this flashing however, where an addition attaches to the side of the house. Does this look right?

One of the rounded caps on the peak of the roof (far right in pic) blew off in the wind. A roofer came and put it back up for me and he said the whole length was cemented down with dobs of cement instead of bedded in the way he has done. He recommended lifting it all and bedding in the way he has done. My brother in law (not a roofer) said its a waste of money and to leave it. You can see in the pic where the guy has pointed several gaps along the length. I'm of a mind to get it done as the consequences of a crap roof are wild, varied and usually expensive.

The roof is 5 years old. I’m not sure if I’m dealing with major issues here. I’m considering purchasing this home and now I’m not so sure.

As much as I enjoy saving old box gutters from being cut down and replaced with hanging gutters, sometimes that's just how things work out

I had a leak in this location and had a roofer repair this today. Apparently, it was leaking through the exposed nail (pre-fix, 2nd photo). So, I am concerned the fix is going to have the same problem, but times 3-4 - given there are now 3 or 4 exposed nails.

Should I have them re-do it? Or is this a normal install? For pros, how would you rate this?

Thanks!

I recently purchased a home in Melbourne, Australia and have had a persistent leak which enters at the corner of this skylight during significant rainfall.

The first photo shows the original condition of the roof, and then the second, third, and fourth photos are after I have done periodic repairs with a flexible flashing.

After a few further rain events, the issue seemed to improve a bit, but the leak is still occurring. The fifth photo shows the rest of the roof upstream of the skylight, and there’s obviously some joints there in pretty bad shape. Is anyone able to comment on the likelihood of water entering further up at one of those deteriorated joints and travelling down, or any other potential entry point?

I’m at the point where I don’t necessarily mind sealing up the other joints, but then if that doesn’t work I don’t want to have done all that work if there is another more obvious cause.

Thanks

Added a vent hood. Realized I shouldn’t have caulked the bottom of the flashing. Easy fix? Should I replace shingles? Only did the nails under the shingles up top and caulked on top of them along with under the flashing.

I’ve been lurking on this sub for years & know y’all will be able to flag something that multiple roofers haven’t been able to figure out.

I bought this house about a year ago. We flagged a leak before closing. It was supposedly repaired, but then it leaked again, and they came back to’ ‘fix’ again. After the third time they came back to attempt repair, we had separate roofers come out to identify an issue and suggest a permanent fix to stop the leak.

The original work was under warranty (which coincidentally expired exactly today).

Multiple roofers have proposed deleting the feature and going flat, which my wife would not stand for.

They’re telling me that they can’t find a specific source of the leak, and it’s likely coming through the metal and that the metal has worn out and needs to be replaced and is not worth repairing.

I flew my drone up there to take some photos today so I could take a look for myself.
The metal doesn’t look that bad to me & I suspect that the intrusion is happening where the metal meets the shingles / wood window frame.

Any experts in the room with experience with this specific problem I’ve got?

Update: Reddit made my photos fuzzy. Here’s a link to the RAW’s from my drone:

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/hygy2i5r3y15dao26mm8i/AGh_lRu_UlEe7kQOj0ThADQ?rlkey=8xeirzh1w2rsjpqfep87bht0b&st=weueh10x&dl=0

Looking to either repair or replace the valleys on our roof (couple of cracks in the lead, and pointing gone).

Could anyone offer advice on whether code 4 or code 5 lead should be used for these?

And mortar or flexing putty for re bedding the valley tiles? Can’t work out the pros/ cons of each.

If the lead has cracked in two separate places, and the lengths of the lead are below 1.5m, does it suggest that all of the lead across the valleys is on its way to cracking? From our understanding from the previous owner the lead was
replaced 17 years ago.

Thanks!

Hello,

I’m in Southern CA. I have a tile roof. I had a leak on a small sloped portion of roof above my kitchen nook. I’ve replaced the plywood, underlayment and flashing. I’m ready to lay the tiles down but in spite of my before pictures (to reference when I was ready to lay the tile down again) I’m confused.
I can get the tiles to lay flush. The only thing that’s different than before is I added a metal bird stop (opposed to cement). At first I thought the bird stop wasn’t the right one but the roofing company looked at my tiles and confirmed it’s the correct bird stop.

I can’t tell - are my tiles spaced correctly? And - when I add the second row, I’m noticing the tiles don’t sit flush on the previous row. Where did I go wrong and how do I fix this?

I want to re-iterate - this is my first time trying to nail down tile. I’m trying to teach myself whenever I need to do a repair.

Photo 1-3: these are before photos to reference how the tile looked before. Photo 3 is after most the tiles have been removed except for the first row.

Photo 4-5 is how I have the first row tiles laid down
Photo 6 shows how the second layer would look without it being nailed down - does this look right?
Photo 7 shows a gap between the tiles. Hard to tell from the photo but it’s about a 1/2-3/4 in gap - which I know wasn’t there before. That’s why I’m convinced I’m not doing something right - I just don’t know what.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I have never done anything like this. Somewhat handy, not plumbing or anything similar.

How do I connect this hose that is used to empty pools ?
Temporary fix for winter rains.

The hose must run 30 feet without slope to the hillside. On flat hardscape.

Then another 15 to 20 feet down the hillside to the street.

Is this possible? Will the water move that far?
Without a huge downpour?

Obviously the old elbow is at a bad angle to go through the gate.
It has to be a right angle, straight pathway only. For hose.

It is flush with the walkway and house wall, even this hose cannot be slipped onto the opening and attach with an adjustable hose clamp.

How do I cut it?

What elbow or joint do I need to buy? What size to fit over the pipe or inside?

How do I secure the joint?
Secure to wall necessary?

When it rains hard here it is like a fire hose, the down spout not the blue hose.

I have several others, short runs to drains, the hose attached easily with a large hose clamp.
Those I did not have to cut the gutter pipe.

What about light rain, even medium rain, will it drain for such a long distance without pressure?
This is temporary.
Normally would the pipe have to be underground or a French drain?
Must it be housed underground?
Any codes about this?
hillside neighborhood.
Obviously I have no idea what I am doing.
Thank you!!

During our recent roof replacement, we had our box gutters covered over and new gutters installed. On one side of the house they left the original downspouts attached entirely or cut them near the roof and didn't cap them. Is this purely cosmetic or are there any potential issues with this approach?

I got this quote for re-covering my garage around 10sq.

I feel like there’s a lot of missing details/scope. What questions should I be asking? What answers should I be looking for. In our text conversation he said it would be 26g metal. I’d prefer all fasteners be screws.

In Michigan would it be OK to put sheathing over an old plank roof? Or do I need to replace the plank completely? Possibly use new planks for repair with no sheathing at all.

I had a roof replaced about 4 weeks ago and I have a few shingles that look like they are a little puckered. There are two in the top third of this photo. What causes this and is it anything to worry about or will it eventually flatten out?

60 days ago, we had a new roof installed, GAF with a golden pledge warranty. We are having leaks all around the perimeter of the house. In the contract, it says new gutter apron on the eaves and T drip edging on the rakes.
It’s taking me a while to wrap my head around it, but I think the problem is they admitted the gutter apron. Period can you look at the pictures and confirm that’s the case? The contractor is saying the problem is with the gutters and of course, trying to sell me new gutters. I tried to work with the contractor and he said he could repair it, but would not guarantee it. This was a $40,000 job. Will GAF support me?

Just got my roof done. Looks OK to me, but thankfully I haven’t had to get a new roof before. Anyone see anything that looks off?

I live in rural Iowa and recently had a large tree branch come down and hit the house. The main part of the branch missed luckily but there was still some damage. House Gutter/downspout and some wood torn off, garage gutter bent and sloping wrong direction now, and some shingle damage on the house roof. Quote was $1,975. I am a new first time home owner and have no idea what the price should look like so I’m posting here. Good deal or bad deal? Listed below is all the repairs listed on the quote and pictures show damage.

Edit: Based on some questions I asked him it seems like he’s only replacing just the damaged shingles, not putting in new shingles on that entire side of the roof.

Roof materials to be installed:

1. Ice & Water shield
2. Install starter strip
3. Install new shingles
4. Install new fascia board (1 x 6)
5. Install new 1 x 12 on the roof
6. Install nail caps and coil nails as needed
7. Install downspouts and all required elbows
8. Install new 5" gutter along the eaves (garage and house)
9. Apply roofing sealant as needed

Work to be performed:
- Tear off and remove damaged roofing materials
- Tear off old gutter
- Install listed materials
- Cleanup and remove all roofing debris upon completion

Had storm damage and needed the roof replaced. I didn’t know the skylight was bad… I had a feeling, but wasn’t sure. They replaced it without asking. I can see a sliver of daylight through a part of it. They haven’t finished the job yet.

Does this look properly sized? I have zero information other than google, seems small to me.

I've not been able to get home to take a look, but I had somebody come out and work on this. The contractor sent me a photo of this repair ​from the ground.

Squirrels or something had been at the flashing around my stack. I asked a firm to come out to replace the flashing. This looks to me to be a failure point if a good windstorm kicks up. Or am I overthinking things?