Hey team, this has been an issue for a bit, but after mucking about with my front door I'm feeling a bit more confident at tackling my bedroom door, it's just a spring latch but the spring seems to be broken/not working, just wondering if anyone could help guide a bit in getting it fixed.

As seen in the video, the plastic circle with a square insert is supposed to retract the latch, but clearly doesn't have any tension to do so. I'm pretty good with breaking apart and putting stuff back together but would like some guidance. Thanks team!

(Also, excuse the fingernails, I just did a dirty wash on a helldivers B-01 Tactical Armour cosplay and the wash managed to get in my gloves 😔)

Previous locksmith did not finish rekey and left w parts. Does anyone know where we can get a Schlage keyed gate switch like in the picture. Metro wants $750 bucks for replacement. I have keyed dozens of these but don’t have any extra parts. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

A little update on my old Baldwin mortise lock, and unfortunately I’ve run into another problem.

When I went to the locksmith to buy a replacement spindle, I mentioned that the cylinders were difficult to screw into the lock body and that I had to use tools to get them in. They offered to re-tap the threads, so I brought the lock back today to have that done.

After re-tapping, the locksmith told me that the threads on my original cylinders were damaged, which was why they wouldn’t screw in properly. They recommended replacing the cylinders, but they only had one replacement available in a brass/gold finish.

Since one of my original cylinders could still be screwed in by hand, I decided to replace just the exterior cylinder and keep the original Baldwin cylinder on the inside.
The replacement cylinder isn’t a Baldwin. The locksmith said Baldwin cylinders are much more expensive. The new cylinder is also longer than the original, so they gave me a spacer ring to make up the difference.

When I got home and tried to install everything, I ran into two problems:
The spacer ring seems too large and doesn’t fit properly around the threaded portion of the new cylinder. I ended up leaving it off, but without it, the new cylinder screws in too far and leaves insufficient room for the interior cylinder.
The original interior cylinder now won’t screw in at all, even though it was possible to install it before the re-tapping.

I’m not sure what my best next step should be.
Should I just replace both cylinders with aftermarket ones? Is there a significant difference in quality or durability between original Baldwin cylinders and generic replacements?
I’d prefer to keep as much of the original hardware as possible, but I also want everything to fit and function properly.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Anybody ever heard this guy?

https://suno.com/s/jfObPJ4vDaSUr6Hr

I am a locksmith apprentice in California. Our company has an old hpc machine and it's depth is off, after servicing didn't work the company decided it's better to buy a new machine. We're specifically looking for something that cuts Sargent, Yale, Corbin, kaba peaks. Things of that nature. We have a few blue punches that cut schlage and even small format. I called one locksmith and he recommended the ITL 950cm. Was just curious what other locksmiths think. Thanks everyone!!!!

Hey guys,I have this boat to do but I’ll be honest I’m mostly automotive so I’m really not sure what this would need. Does anyone know what key blank this takes?

Even the smart pro is removing some models it could previously do. The boss has procrastinated and now may be forced to do it lol.

Can anyone tell me if this lock is obstructed? The local locksmith is telling me that the brass tube in there is supposed to swing out of the way when the key hits it. All it does is prevent the key blank from entering. It almost looks like it was soldered in place, but it could just be marks from keys being blocked by it. This is the type of lock that uses ball bearings atop the pins...Any information is much appreciated thanks!

My grandfather recently passed away and left behind his locksmith workshop.

I’m currently going through everything and found a large collection of unused key blanks, as well as various key-cutting machines and other locksmith equipment.

He was actively working as a locksmith until around 2014–2016, so most of these key blanks are likely over 10 years old, possibly even older.

There are blanks for both car keys and regular door locks. Some of the brands I’ve found include JMA, Errebi, Orion, and Silca.

I’m not a locksmith myself, so I have no idea whether any of this still has value or if there’s even a market for these older key blanks.

Would it be worth trying to sell everything, either individually or as a bulk lot? Or would I be better off just selling it all for scrap metal?

I’d really appreciate any advice on what I should look out for, whether some of these blanks might be rare or valuable, and where I could potentially sell them.
Thanks in advance for any help!

We don’t use them, we never have, we have a Facebook page and try to keep it somewhat active with just posts, not videos. But for those that have Instagram or TikTok, do they generate jobs? And which
of the two is more fruitful?

Buying a house for the first time and looking for good options to "replace the locks" as one of the first purchases and upgrades to the home. I'm hoping options exist for keyless entry deadbolts that have zero wifi capability but do offer key card or key fob through RFID or Bluetooth. Anybody know if anything like that exists? I figuee 10-15 years ago those options were much more prevalent than today but still hopeful that something like what I'm looking for exists.

No idea how this happened… but any way to fix this ?

We recently converted an investment property to have three points of entry. One of them is on the side of the house and the renter has to enter through an outdoor yard door. Currently it has a latch and opens only from inside. How do I make this accessible from outside in a more secure manner? I have Yale locks for the main doors. But I need something for the outside. I’m in Washington state and it rains all the time. Was looking for something with a key fob and not too pricey.

I am an adult living in my mothers house. (Please no comments saying 'get your own place' etc as I would LOVE to do that but am unable to do so at present).

I had to put a lock on my bedroom door as my mother could not keep out of my bedroom. She has zero boundaries or respect for my privacy. She was going in my room at least every day, looking in my draws, wardrobe etc.

She even trashed and rearranged my bedroom once when I was out. (Believe me, I absolutely do not want to be here.)

So I put a lock on my bedroom door. The lock has a Bolt that is morticed into the door. It came with 1 splined key. The lock has "No additional Anti-Tamper/Vandal Properties."

This lock has worked very effectively keeping her out and it's given me such peace of mind when I'm out, knowing that she isn't rummaging through or stealing my things when I'm at work.

However, she's been seething about this for a while, and I've found out that she is planning on getting into my bedroom when I'm at work, via getting a locksmith or handyman to remove the lock or perhaps even remove my bedroom door. I was utterly horrified to hear this.

So I now need a new lock on my bedroom door that MUST have Anti-Tamper Properties. That is ESSENTIAL as she will be getting people to try and get in my bedroom whilst I'm at work.

My bedroom door is a wooden door. 35mm thick.

In short: I'm looking for a Secure Lock for a 35mm thick wooden Bedroom Door, that has Anti-Tamper Properties.

Any suggestions please?

Hello,

I want a lock that can always be unlocked in one direction (to exit) but be locked or unlocked in the other (to enter). It would need to be suitable to be used outside.

Any recommendations? I saw "classroom locks" but I can't tell if that's going to work. Sorry, dumb.

Hello,

I've been a member for awhile but this is my first post. I'm a recently certified facility locksmith, but I don't have much experience with these old locks. My grandparents lost the key for the two locks on their little desk thing.

I figure replacing them would be easier, but maybe I can impression a key if you all can possibly point me towards the right blanks? What do you all think would be easier?

Either way I'm not sure how to remove them if that would be best. They are mortised into the wood, and I'm guessing held with glue? I was able to gently pop the key holes off, but trying to push the locks out was threatening to damage the wood or bend the brass. There's no visible adhesive from the mortised face, but there appears to be some residue behind the keyhole rose (?)

Any guidance would be appreciated! Thank you all for your time! 🤟

During the 2022 chip shortage our Audi Q5 (FY) was delivered with one key. Audi later posted a second key to me under a key completion campaign, but the dealer had already ordered another one and paired that instead, so this one was never paired to any car. The car is long gone (lease handed back) and the dealer said I can just sell it.

Label: 4M0.959.754.CK / 433 / Model AK1A / H50/0237/04S / date code 220125.

Questions: 1. Would a key posted out like this be pre-coded to the car's VIN (FAZIT), or is it a blank? 2. If it's coded, can a locksmith renew it for another car, and what is it worth? Used ones go for £30-45 on eBay UK, new genuine ones are £190+.

Thanks!

Bought a Be375, got it installed, everything works correctly when locking and unlocking using codes. When I try to enable the "lock and leave" feature, the bolt won't turn. I have enabled and disabled it a few times to no avail.

The lock and leave feature is for locking without having to enter the code, you press the Schlage button once, and it engages the deadbolt but only in one direction (towards the strike plate). It's a convenience thing. Anyone know of any way to get this working?

My ex had these hidden all over the place. He wasn't...safe. but we're safe for now.

I am a trucker and need a pad lock for storing my snow chains that won’t seize up when I actually go to use the chains

Sharing some impressions works on the job sites. Who’s responsible for these??