After a lot of thinking, back and forth, and should we or shouldn’t we, my wife and I decided to pull the trigger on this stunning “Mostly New” GC L! Slate Blue, and it looks so much better in person than in photos. More green undertones and closer to teal than straight up light blue.

This is by far the nicest and newest vehicle we have ever purchased. Originally we were in the market for a Durango, but our sales person offered us a test drive in this and we instantly fell in love. I am still skeptical of the Hurricane I-4 Turbo, so we opted for the 100k B2B warranty just in case. We drove it 1.5 hours to get home over mountains (Western PA) and on the highway for the last stretch and have a solid 24.5 mpg on that trip. The new hurricane didn’t flinch at all and felt incredibly competent moving this SUV.

We upgraded from a ‘19 Sorento and the size increase is perfect for our family of 4. If you are debating between a Durango, GC L, and Wagoneer and lean towards the midsize rather than full size I’d recommend considering this.

- Fit and finish is immaculate for the Limited Reserve.
- Hurricane I-4 seems strong and capable (does run hot and vents a lot of that heat into the engine bay).
- 2nd row captains chairs are wonderful for car seats.
- Family Friendly features like “FamCam” and 360 cams are a big welcome addition over the Sorento.
- Sound system is great. Low end is very extended and solid at the stock setting. Pushing the low end up to +9 is ridiculous, but the woofer handles it. Highs can be a little thin at higher volumes, I’d recommend setting them at -1

Time will tell on the I-4 reliability, but so far so good, and we are extremely happy with our purchase! Happy to finally be a family of all Mopar.

Lifted 2" on 33s. 240k miles and still running strong. Get 20 mpg when I drive it right. Bought as a stock GC and just had fun with it

2.5” rough country leveling kit and 1.5” wheel spacers. 275/55r20. Stock wheels

To delete the air suspension one has to replace the front struts and the rear shocks + springs, correct? Is there more involved, like sway bars or anything? Do the standard suspension parts bolt right on?

Hey everyone!
I’m having a strange cold start issue with my 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee, and I’m wondering if anyone else has experienced something similar.
Here’s what’s happening:
Remote Start: The engine cranks and starts normally without any hesitation.
Push Button Start: If I get in and press the start button right away, the engine cranks and cranks but won’t start.
Waiting for Fuel Pump: If I turn the ignition to ON without starting the engine, wait a few seconds for the fuel pump to prime, and then press the start button, it fires right up.
This mostly happens during cold starts, especially after the vehicle has been sitting for several hours.
I’m starting to suspect a fuel pressure issue, possibly a failing fuel pump, fuel pressure check valve, or maybe a fuel filter issue. Almost seems like the fuel system is losing pressure while the vehicle sits.
Has anyone experienced this before? Could the remote start be allowing the fuel pump to prime before cranking, while the push button start isn’t giving it enough time?
I’d appreciate any suggestions before I start replacing parts.
Thanks in advance!

Just got the new iphone 18pro and it connects to my car but the actual carplay screen will not show, it just goes black then clears out. I can play music and take calls but no screen. Appreciate your help.

I am hard on my brakes. I tend to warp them pretty quickly. Does anyone have any suggestion other than changing my driving habits :) - Suggestions on rotors that might be more resilient? Thanks in advance.

New to owning a Grand Cherokee and have been looking at either a 2024 limited or 2026 limited. Any opinions on why I should go with one over the other in terms of reliability, engine, etc.? The mileage and price is similar on both cars so that is not playing a huge factor for me but would love to hear additional thoughts. Thank you in advance!

The dealership replaced a faulty media hub last week on 2021 GC Limited and now it’s not recognizing anything is plugged in on Uconnect, but devices are charging fine. All cables are good. Any ideas or is this back to the dealership.
I’ve done a bunch of troubleshooting including reset, phone restarts, different phones, etc. Both ports are powered but no data.

Plus, I’m taking this car over from a family member. They never updated UConnect because they said the dealership charged $500. I’m seeing that I can probably do this myself. Is this correct?

Owners hit me with some tips and tricks to keep my Jeep on point, it’s performing as expected just trynna get some insights from long term owners.

-Ran Hot, not smoking hot but gauge climbed to about 240°

-parked it, next morning Crank, No Start. Code P0320 Crankshaft position sensor. I lightly tapped cps with my fingers and jostled wiring. Jeep started.

-extremely rough idle. Reset battery draining residual power by touching positive to metal AND pressed Horn til nothing. Now code P0302 Misfire on cylinder 2. Spark plug for that cylinder looks ok, worn but nothing indicating a misfire.

-cranks and drives but still rough idle(as comparing to idle before running hot)

I feel like I'm chasing a gremlin or something. Don't have the $ to sink into replacing each parts just for it not to be significant at this time. Really just need to get back and forth to work till I save up enough $ to replace or something.

Any advice is much appreciated.

Oh yeah, prior to running hot, getting code P1899 stuck neutral/parking switch for about a month.

150 miles on a JGC Limited Reserve.

First, trying to cycle through the preset stations with the button on the back of the steering wheel - it gets stuck on presets 1 & 2, and just keeps going back and forth between those two.

Second, randomly unable to hear people on a call, and they cannot hear me.

Third, system doesn't automatically connect to phone when starting the car.

Fourth, heated steering wheel barely gets above room temperature.

Anyone experience these and have any suggestions?

This a beauty… her name is Lynnette 🔥💪🏾

Long post.

I’m looking for advice from Jeep owners, mechanics, and anyone who’s dealt with Stellantis or a third-party extended warranty company.

We purchased a used 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee in Oklahoma in 2025. It currently has approximately 80,000 miles.

In July 2026, we took it to an independent repair facility, Expert Auto Care (also known as Hondura), for an A/C problem.

Here’s what happened:
July 17–21: Initial A/C repair. We paid approximately $1,800 and got the vehicle back, but the A/C still wasn’t cooling.

August: The shop continued repairs under our extended warranty through Enterprise Financial Group (EFG). The evaporator core was replaced, but we were subsequently told a different HVAC air-box assembly was required.

September: We were told the required air box was nationally backordered. On September 14, the shop said the part had arrived and the vehicle should be ready the next day. On September 18, after multiple unanswered calls, we learned the wrong part had arrived.

September 28: We opened a case with Jeep/Stellantis Customer Care and began requesting manufacturer assistance.

October 6: The vehicle was transported to Bob Howard Jeep, an authorized Jeep dealer, following coordination involving the original shop and warranty administrator.

October 16: Stellantis informed us its internal repurchase review had been denied. We also discovered multiple case-management emails had been sent to an email address that wasn’t ours, despite our having provided correct contact information several times.

October 22: After receiving virtually no updates from the receiving dealership, we went there in person. We found the Jeep with much of its dashboard and interior disassembled, with components piled throughout the cabin. Photos attached. The Jeep with its driver’s side window all the way down and has sat, uncovered, for 2 weeks during heavy rain.

October 23: Bob Howard Jeep informed us that EFG wants a new diagnosis. However, the vehicle arrived so extensively disassembled that the dealership says it needs approximately $2,000 in reassembly work before it can properly diagnose it. We were told that expense would be ours.
We haven’t authorized that charge.

To be fair, Bob Howard Jeep did not perform the original disassembly, and the service advisor we’ve been working with has been helpful.
We have been without a properly functioning vehicle for months, are still making the loan payments, and are significantly upside down financially on the vehicle.

My questions:
Is it normal for an independent repair shop to transfer a vehicle to another facility with the entire interior disassembled?

Should the original repair facility be responsible for reassembling it or paying the receiving dealership to do so?

Can a warranty administrator require a completely new diagnosis after previously authorizing repairs and participating in the transfer?

Has anyone successfully resolved a similar dispute through Stellantis, a third-party warranty company, or a consumer-protection complaint?

What would you do next to get the vehicle repaired or reach a financial resolution without paying another $2,000?

We have the repair invoices, warranty correspondence, towing records, and photographs documenting the situation.
I’m trying to figure out the most effective way to resolve this without throwing more money at a repair process that’s already lasted over three months.

Hi folks! I have a 2017 Grand Cherokee Summit, with the 5.7 HEMI and it currently sits at 56,000 KM.

I’m trying to figure out a throttle response issue I’ve frankly had since I bought this vehicle, but has become annoyingly more prominent over the years.

Essentially, stepping on throttle, even with “Eco Off” mode, isn’t always instantaneous linear response.

Now i get MDS plays a factor on it, as well as the weight - but despite 360hp… It feels like it’s a turbo-charged vehicle with tons of turbo lag when I accelerate 1 in 3 times - it hesitates, bogs, bucks, downshifts, then goes. I’m finding this is more typical at lower speed rolls as well where speed is maintained then suddenly needs to accelerate.

For a while I was driving in eco-off to help remedy that and possibly disable MDS, assuming its that - but at this point as much I love this vehicle, makes me feel like a novice driver as smooth acceleration attempts creates the harsh drop-lag-buck-then go. Stepping on it just isn’t smooth, or as responsive as I need it to be.

I know I’m gonna get the people yelling at me to get a pedal commander - but it’s not pedal-throttle response I’m looking for, it’s linear power response. Not sure if it’s the engine, computer or transmission at this point. Or simply natural for this vehicle. I use to, and occasionally had another issue of a harsh 5 to 4 downshift as well that would jolt the vehicle on decel.

Any guides? Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

Got my first Jeep 73k miles, it’s rear wheel drive planning to take to Mammoth to snowboard. Does anyone have my experience with this any advice helps

Hello!

I drive a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee automatic and have a rebuilt transmission (in the last two years out of warranty) in it but recently it’s has not wanted to shift out of first, if I put it in neutral and back to drive it will shift at least to second. All sensors have been replaced as well, I’m absolutely lost so if anyone has any idea or has experienced this please let me know!

What kind of phone mounts are you guys rocking? Looking for a nice slim magsafe mount, also where are you guys mounting them in vehicle. Feel like vents might be to fragile and windshield might be to far.

I tried the BF Goodrich KO3’s at 24psi on my Grand Cherokee Laredo x and it worked pretty good. I locked it on 1st gear, Sport Mode on, traction control on. It would have been better at 18 psi but I didn’t have a compressor in the vehicle. It’s not as good as a Wrangler but it’s way better than most SUV’s

Im changing out the battery on my 2018 Grand Cherokee found this loose. I’m assuming it’s a battery vent but I can’t find where it would plug into the battery. It is an AMG battery as it has auto start. Any help is appreciated!