Hello Everyone might just try to ask here as I've searched the internet for solutions but can't really tell what could be the problem of my car.

Just one morning my passenger side window doesnt go down anymore. It goes up and has a sound of the motor that it is going up but not down. the driver side instead can't 100% control the passenger window. it couldn't be the fuse as driver side window works perfectly fine. Gemini said it could just be the switch that does not make contact with down button of the switch, if so, then could be an easy replacement fix. can anyone with maybe electrical knowledge help me out. Thank you.

Having this issue with the hood of my Suzuki Swift. I know red paint can oxidize leading to dulling. Only have this issue on the hood; the rest of the body panels are fine. I have taken it to a couple of detailers to try to get it buffed out. However, currently it looks like this.

Is this something that I can fix myself? Or will I have to get it repainted?

Any tips are much appreciated!

3 months ago i bought a 2019 chevy trax from a ford dealership with 133k miles on it , 3 months later my engine light came on . I took it to a dealership for a diagnostic and it turn’s out my transmission computer is failing , car drives perfectly fine but without a stable transmission computer it sometimes fails to switch gears and my steering wheel locks up because it cant communicate with the engine , forcing me to pull over and restart my car . —-Long story short , i owe 7k on the car and the mechanics i went to are charging 2k+ on a fix which i will not have no time soon in today’s economy . I just cannot afford it , iv’e been told that i might have to take the loss and find a car with my negative equity . Im just bummed , it hasn’t even been 3 months and now im on the verge of loosing my car to mechanical problems .

What options would you take if you knew you couldn’t afford a 2k+ fix ? I just don’t know what to do other than drive the car until it completely fails then try to find something else . Life sucks .

So I have a Honda Civic 2012 and the D for drive is flashing with a green light and my check engine light is on. My RPM is also shooting up very quickly. If I go above 45 mph I cannot get it lower than 3. Highway speeds it will go up to 4 no matter how much I try to let off the gas pedal. The RPM just will not stay down. I also notice my car dragging especially when trying to slow down and after accelerating after remaining stopped.

Another important thing to note is that before all of this, I noticed for over a year that when I went above 2 rpm I would notice a grinding sound but it never caused any issues in driving or anything, just a noise.

All of this happened shortly after I stupidly drove over a curb. It was dark, one of my headlights was out (I have recently fixed that) and my window was extremely fogged up. I was trying to go around the speed bump but I wasn't at the speed bump yet so I hit a curb before it. Yeah dumb move, but shit happens.

Someone said it's possible I could just need fluid but I don't know. With all of the factors I think it could be more serious. I would hope that's it because that would be much better for my wallet. Especially considering my muffler is also acting up.

kind of an update of my last post about a weird squeaking noise coming from my car, but i looked at my wheels and noticed quite a bit of rust on the rotor(?). could this be the cause? regardless, how bad is it to drive like this?

2012 Corolla, 1.8L, about 120k miles. It's my daily commuter. Lately it sometimes shakes at red lights once warmed up, but it's much less noticeable once I'm moving. The check engine light came on a couple days ago and stays on without flashing.

I scanned it with carpal obd scanner on my phone and got P0171 (system too lean). The app listed intake leaks and the MAF sensor as possible causes. I checked the intake hose between the airbox and throttle body. No obvious cracks, and the clamps seem tight.

I'm only comfortable with basic stuff like changing the air filter. I found a few threads where replacing sensors didn't fix it, so I'd like to check what I can before buying parts.

Hey everyone,

I just bought a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE on facebook marketplace, it runs pretty great but the only problem is my coolant keeps disappearing without a trace. I have filled it up to the max fill line 3 times in the past 2-3 weeks. Every single time I fill it, it completely empties within a few days. I’m worried I might’ve have accidentally damaged the head gasket because it overheated without me noticing. Today, before I filled it with coolant again, it completely shut off on me when I stopped for a red light, i had to restart it to get it moving. It was also was super shaky while idling.

What are the obvious signs of a blown head gasket I can look for? And how much would i be able to sell the car if it was the issue? I paid 4k for it and there’s no way Ill be able to afford replacing the head gasket

Hello all
I got this a couple months ago as a way to learn more about cars
I’m currently trying to figure out why it feels like a kayak on stairs but I think the springs are to low to do anything
I don’t currently have coilover tools but I’m working on getting some

Any help and tips are appreciated
Thank you 😊

I’m building an engine simulator. Does this sound like a flat-six to you?
I feel like it’s missing some of that high-pitched tone, but I’m curious what you guys think.

I was wondering if such a setup exists specifically for older cars that didn't have anti lag tech.

I’m looking around for a new car and most likely looking for a bmw, I came across a m440i xdrive m performance. I was wondering if anyone here is familiar with those series and if the engine are good or to avoid? Thanks for the help!

Just bought a 2022 Tiguan SE 4Motion with 39k miles on it today. I drove it and fell absolutely in love with it! Called my parents after I bought it and my dad is now telling me I made a horrible mistake and that they are nothing but issues. Anybody wanna reassure me that I didn’t just make a huge mistake? 🥺

I have a 2019 Smart Fortwo 453 Coupe. I ordered replacement spark plugs and the tools listed as suitable for it from Autodoc, but I've been putting the job off for three or four months.

The reason probably sounds silly: I read, or ChatGPT told me, that the car has to stand for at least 24 hours before changing the plugs. I use it every day, so finding a full day when I don't need to drive has kept me from getting started.

I want to check whether that advice is actually correct for this car. Does it really need a fixed 24-hour wait, or does the engine just need to be completely cold? Could I drive home in the evening, park it overnight, and change them the next morning before starting the engine? How do you judge when it's sufficiently cooled down?

I'd particularly appreciate experience from someone who's serviced a petrol 453, or a reference to the manufacturer's procedure. Are there model-specific reasons for waiting that long? I'm asking about the cooling requirement, not looking for permission to remove plugs from a hot engine or skip the proper procedure.

I haven't specified the exact engine variant, mileage or transmission here, so please flag if those details change the answer. I don't want to guess specifications. I've also asked in AskMechanics for a second opinion. Thanks!

Hello! Sorry if this isn't the place to ask but it seems the most fitting

Despite other's views, I'm a huge fan of speed chimes in many older cars but I'm not savvy enough to fully install one into my car. Are there any speedometers that plug in or something that I can get to play a sound file? Or some other way.

I own a 2023 Subaru impreza if that helps as well.

What I'm referring to is the 2005-2008(W164)
Mercedes ML320CDI and the 2006-2010(7L
Facelift) VW Touareg 3.OTDI, both automatic and 4x4 obviously. Here's my concern:

I need a car for towing, and I'm in the Balkans where accessibility and parts are best for German cars, but if you guys have any other suggestions around the same price range I would consider anything.

I'm having a hard time choosing between these 2 cars, so I would appreciate help with advice and first hand experience with reliability, capability etc.

Can someone help me out.

Been to every salvage yard and eBay listing looking for the cable harness for the front side lights for my 2012.

Can’t find them anywhere. I was told by one of the part houses that the rear bumper harness is the same and you can use it, Don’t know if that is true.

What is the proper name or part number for that cable?

Any information on getting this part will be appreciated.

A lot of junkyards around me got bought out by some network and now parts are sky high. $2 parts are now $20 $20 parts are now $200.

Now for about 10% more I can just hop on eBay, see the part photos and have it shipped without wasting gas to go to the junkyard.

Last time I went to this junkyard, it was $100 for a 2008 Prius Headlight, used. $20 for a wiring harness inside a steering wheel. $75 for a water pump. Some parts I got cheaper new from Rockauto.

My 2019 limited recently went in for the extended warranty on the stereo head unit, before they replaced the head unit I had noticed some sound ducking in the front speakers we had assumed it was due to the ghost touching causing confusion in the system. A little about what is happening, my speakers in the front doors play some base but when I turn the positioning all the way to the front I get very little very muffled sound and still most of it is coming from the back door speakers… the speakers are not blown, we pulled the door apart and the wiring looks to be intact 😵‍💫has anyone else had this issue? I feel like I’ve gone through every setting I could but maybe I’m missing something I’m really disappointed because it’s the Harmon kardon sound system which is supposed to be really good

I recently purchased new wheels and tires. Discount Tire did the mounting and balancing and I had a mild to moderate vibration in both the steering wheel and body of the car directly after installation.

I went back in today and asked for a rebalance which they performed and it helped but I’m still getting mild vibrations through both the steering wheel and body of the car — enough to vibrate your fingers when holding the steering wheel. Two wheels have 4-6oz of weight and the other two have 1-3oz.

I did not have the vibrations in the steering wheel with the old set of wheels but did have them in the body. I believe an old rear wheel was bent so I purchased new wheels and tires to rectify this. When putting the old rear wheels on the front I get a moderate to severe vibration in the steering wheel.

I really don’t want to be a pain in the ass and ask for another rebalance as well as risk more adhesive/damage to the wheel from rebalancing, but I don’t know if I want to live with the shakes, however minor they may be.

What do?

2020 F150 I’ll be honest it has been through a lot I hunt, off roads in Montana- Washington. Never professionally cleaned before. I paid $250. Am I being too picky?

My 2016 LTG Camaro 6MT is typically between 195'F-205'F for normal daily driving or interstate driving at 75mph-85mph. It'll get up to ~220'F if I'm giving it the beans a lot in town, or if I'm tracking/autocrossing it.

My wife's 2022 Jeep Compass Limited is usually between 215'F-230'F in normal driving/interstate cruising. I have seen it hit 250'F driving in the mountains.

Interesting how different two engines are! Obviously, I'm using good synthetic oil in both, and I've watched enough Oil Geek videos to know I'm not in any dangerous temp range for good synthetic oil.

I'm still always surprised that the Camaro, being a high strung small boosted four cylinder (I'm pretty modded and custom tuned), gets such low oil temps compared to the Compass. The Camaro is not a 1LE, so it does not have the factory auxiliary cooler, either.

Hey so I just bought my first vehicle and its a 1999 Ford F150 with a V8 5.4 liter engine. I was just wondering what are some common problems that I should be looking out for and just general advice when driving a truck, any help would be greatly appreciated.

In the past few months I've had an issue with my electric power steering assist. Every few weeks the power steering cuts out when turning the vehicle at slow speeds. Battery is good. Alternator is charging at 14v. Recently the car will behave as if the battery has been disconnected while the car is off. I can tell this because the clock and radio will be reset like the do when you disconnect the battery. I'm kind of suspecting the decoupler pulley on my alternator might be going out, but that's kind of a hail mary guess. My local GM dealership charged me $85 to tell me they couldn't replicate the problem so they don't know what it is. Not wasting my time with them on anything ever again.

Any ideas?