Car is 2016 Chevy Cruze, my goal is a very loud bass, overall clean sounding system with strong midbass.

Hoping I could get some recommendations for what to buy. I ran into a lot of problems trying to use line output converters because the stock Bose system has all kinds of modifications to the signal running to the speakers. So I want to replace my head unit. I sound deadened most of the vehicle.

I saw some high quality head units that have a built in DSP / time delay settings, 12 band eq, high 4v/5v rca preamp output etc. Any recommendations for which one to buy would be greatly appreciated!

Heres what I have so far:

Mids and highs:

Rear: 6x9 infinity kappa 609 speakers back deck, Rear doors have 300w rms PRV speakers. Powered by: Rockford fosgate Prime R400-4D (200w x 2 @ 4ohm bridged) (2018 model)

Front door speakers: currently stock, powered by Rockford fosgate Prime Series 4-channel car amplifier — 75 watts RMS x 4 (2018 model) im thinking of replacing my front door speakers with the Focal 165AS3 component set, including adding Pillar pods. (I know ill need time delay / DSP for that since mids and highs will be physically far apart from each other) and maybe a 2nd speaker in the same door pod for more overall volume?

Woofer: Skar audio vxf 15 d2 in a custom box tuned to 34hz - need to buy an amplifier for this. Also need to add the 2nd baffle to the front of the box. Its braced a lot internally following MB enclosures / exocontraltos box building tips.

Head unit - stock, want to replace

I plan to build door pods for the front and back doors, do the big 3 upgrade, and get a 2nd battery (ive heard lithium batteries are the best choice, is it true?)

My budget is about $2,500. Thanks!!!

Finally got around to hooking up my bargain of the century, $200 for 2x Kicker S10L7s and a JL Audio 1000.1. they work, now to make a nice box.

First build for me in many moons, being in my 30s also means being financially able to try and do it neatly lol. So hoping to make this one look nice.

What’s up guys, my amp recently started to output way less sound. It would heavily chop and distort at higher volume that it previously had no problem producing. I got a sub “professionally” installed and thought nothing of it cause the sub worked fine. Turns out the guy left ground wire exposed, the other sub wire fell out, hit the exposed ground, and set my original mono amp on fire.

This was just one issue with the sub. But now my factory jbl amp is the problem. It started playing like shit and only worked on low volume (I’m a sucker for loud music). Did all the tests and they pointed to the amp itself. Opened up half my god damn car and found this lovely setup.

That was really not a fun process. SO happy to be done with that part. It’s for sure made a noticeable difference though! Especially cruising down the highway, I’ll be doing trunk floor later this week with some other panels to.

I put the floor liner in last night and started mounting the amp and getting all the wire mocked up. Nothing is hooked to.power.

Hey everyone! I’ve been working on custom firmware for the mObridge A2B and wanted to share it in case it helps anyone else that may be having various issues that the company not fixed yet.

The current release fixes a wake-up issue that could leave the system without sound, and with ignition-on and shutdown pops. It’s been working well on my DA-G2 Pro A2B for the last while.

Future plans include a real rear-fill algorithm, ability to map rear park assist chimes to rear speakers, Dolby Pro Logic 2 surround decoding similar to a Riven DSP, and dynamic EQ curves based on vehicle speed and volume. Those are still planned features—not part of this release.

The firmware download, installation instructions are here:
https://github.com/leland331/mobridge-a2b-custom-firmware
⁠
This is an unofficial project, so please check compatibility and back up your settings before updating. If you try it, I’d be interested to hear how it works for you!

I need help finding the right speaker amp for my ford ford fusion. I have aftermarket Rockford fosgate speakers in the front and rear doors and an aftermarket alpine radio. I recently bought a 10” ct sounds subwoofer along with the ct700 sub amplifier. I’m unsure which speaker amplifier to get an honestly which wiring kit to get as well and I don’t want to have the wrong ones installed. If anyone could give some advice I’d appreciate it!

I’m looking to run my Morel component system active.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_210MAXIM6X/Morel-Maximo-6-MK-II.html

This is my first time doing active, and I just have a few questions. First, for the tweeter, should I keep the crossover the same as it came from factory crossover(4000 hz)? Or can I lower it by mabye 500 and then match the mid ranges crossover to it?
Any other tips or recommendations?

I want to replace the stock head unit on my 2026 Nissan Frontier but on crutchfield it says they don't recommend replacing it and there is no dash kit available. It says that for all possible head units. If I try and add one to cart anyway, it doesn't offer any harness options. Is the head unit not replaceable? Or do I have to do something custom? It says the same thing for 2025 models too.

Hey everyone, a guy local to me is willing to trade a brand new 3 way focal slatefiber kit for a bmw m57 engine i'm initially selling for 150euros.

My project car is period correct oriented but i don't know much about audio, what is installed in my car are :

-The headunit is an alpine CDM-7874RB (with a modified faceplate using 7871r and 7860r parts to have green lighting)

-The amp is an alpine mrv f307 4 channels a/b class

-The speakers are 2 ways alpine s type if i remember right, but they start to show their age

I don't want to spend money on audio, i would rather spend it on engine or chassis..

Is it a good idea to take the offer or should i pass ? i saw that the kit include passive filters, but how can i wire them up for acceptable result ? i'm not an audiophile but i can enjoy some good sound

Thanks and have a great day :)

So, I know the brands I'm about to mention are not the most liked, but I don't have the budget for nicer gear :(

Currently, I have a duel 12inch box, some older kicker ported enclosure 34htz.

Running 2 - 03 kicker crv subs, from the one site I could fine, these are 150w rms 300w max.

Amp is a CAB-22 and I have it wired to 1ohm rn. Peak output is 2200w

Metering the subs, I'm pulling about 1200w before distortion/subs bottoming out. These subs have survived over power for years and years across several cars. Love them, just feel like the excursion is low, and new subs could give me better bass given the extra power I could be using.

I'm currently looking at either CT Sounds TROPO series, or skar EVL line. Both are around my amps rated power, and seem to actually move more then current subs.

I would love any input as to what the trade off would be upgrading but using lesser gear, or if I should wait and get some better brands within my price range.

* **What are your goals for your car audio system - as loud as possible (SPL)? Sound quality (SQ)? Some combination of both? Describe to us how you want your system to sound.**

I would love to have a serious amount of bass but ofc I think it would be very important for everything to sound clear but also loud. Honestly a little bit of all haha😅.

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* **What vehicle? - year, make, model, type (coupe, sedan, SUV, truck, etc.)**

2018 Toyota Camry SE Sedan

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* **What is your maximum budget?**

$2000

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* **Will you be installing the gear or are you going to a shop? If a shop is doing the work, does your budget include the cost of labor?**

I would love to do it myself with my dad. It would be a nice project to do but also it can’t be extremely complex if that’s a possibility because both him and I have no experience. Essentially if it exists, I would want to have and amazing sound system where it’s on the easier side to install instead of all the crazy stuff I hear about sounds systems😅

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* **What gear is in your existing system? (Is it stock? List any aftermarket gear.)**

Everything is stock. It’s an SE too so it does not have the upgraded JBL system.

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* **What is your country of purchase? Leave any finishing thoughts here.**

USA. Some things I want to mention.. so I have no idea what I’m getting into. This is my very first car and I just really want a nice sound system. I love bass but also I would love my speakers to sound clear and loud. There’s so much on the internet that it’s just hard to find a place to start. I just found out what Crutchfield is, is that perhaps a website I should go through? I would just love some help on what exactly I should get that wouldn’t be a bunch of rocket science trying to put in lol. Any help would mean a lot! Thank you so much if you get the chance to leave some advice!!🙏🙌

Kenwood 1057xr

Audio Control DM 810 DSP

Alpine amp / Fosgate T1000

Focal Flax all the way around

Sundown SA 8's

(After hours of dinking with the 810 I got rid of the floor noise/ still going to replace as soon as my wife is done being mad about the money spent)

Cdx-m7810 stuck in store demo mode, the only buttons that respond are holding off to turn completely off and the angle/eject button seems to work, other than that no response to get it out of demo mode or bring up any menu.. HELP

This drawing is what I was thinking about doing, I wanted to connect both 8 ohm speakers separately to the same 4 ohm bridged channel. Each speaker will be in a different box so I can’t wire them together. Could this be an option? Or would I be better off just connecting each speaker to a regular 2 ohm channel?
Also, they’re horn drivers (~225 rms each) and the bridged wattage would be 400 watts if it matters.

I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra Sport Touring station wagon. When I put a dvd in the player, it gets stuck and I can't get it out. It was removed once when I got the car back from the shop, but I've been on dvd #2 for the last 6 months.

If I set the audio source to DVD, it will play fine. However, sometimes it will hit an Error code when it tries to read the disc.

If I hit eject, it either tells me the tray is empty or it will flash something like "Error 3".

Would anyone have any idea what I might need to do to fix this? I'm willing to take it out and try to fix it, I just haven't ventured into a fix like this before.

Cheers

Thought I'd have a little fun while carving pumpkins this year!

For context, I’ve done this exactly once before.
Here’s what I have so far:
2x kicker comp r 10"
Audio control epic 1000w
Audio control lc2i pro
Stinger wiring
Ported box
Wood and other fabrication tools (to mount my amp and lc2i in a not ugly way hopefully)
And finally about 6 hours of my life. Any recommendations, tips, or issues yall see? Thanks.

Ps. Forgot to put a picture of the box I’m actually putting the subs in in this post, they are NOT going in that long ahh box

Hi all,

I've given my sub-woofer (JL Audio CP112-W0v3) to my brother, so I'm after advice on a replacement (open to suggestions or even to buy the same one as before).

Current setup:

- Head Unit: factory Honda stereo (keeping it)

- LOC: AudioControl LC2i behind the dash, fed from the factory speaker outputs (keeping it)

- Amp: JL Audio XDM400/4 in the boot

- CH1/2: JL C3-650 front components, high-pass at ~80Hz

- CH3/4: bridged to the sub, low-pass at ~80Hz

- Input mode set to 2-channel, JL remote level control fitted

- Rears: factory speakers, powered by the head unit

Old sub: JL Audio CP112-W0v3: single 12" W0v3 in a slot-ported BassWedge enclosure, 4Ω, 300W RMS, run off CH3/4 bridged.

Should I just replace the CP112-W0v3 like-for-like, or is there a better option for this amp? I don't want a dedicated mono amp.

Any specific recommendations appreciated.

Many thanks!

I have a 2026 GMC Sierra SLT with the Bose system. I am at this point in time just looking to add a sub to my system. I dont think i'll ever get around to replacing the speakers and adding another amp but not sure.

Originally I thought I could just buy this sub and amp combo. And This T-Harness for my system, a LC2i some wiring and call it a day, BUT then I started seeing other things like. PAC Audio AP4-GM71.

Now Im not sure if I need to get this Pac Audio instead of the other harness.

I dont want to do T taps into my wiring becuase I just dont like it and want a point of failure (new vehicles have so much electrical I just dont want to mess with things other than using factory harnesses personally). Im trying to keep this as "budget" as I can but im having a hard time understanding what I actually need to get a good bass out of my system.

Please let me know if I am missing any information needed to properly help me make the correct purchase.

Can anybody name one thing that a rear fill is good for im def on team no fill now.