I am still new to pottery, I started in May.

I worked very hard on this mug and it came out just how I wanted it to. The weight is nice, the foot is clean, the handle is comfortable, and drinking out of it has been great. I was testing out using stroke and coat and glaze together and I am happy with how it turned out. It was my first time using a speckled clay and I love the visual texture it adds.

I am still working on handles - it is hard for me to get them straight. I am legally blind in my left eye and they always turn just little, I'm not sure if that is the issue but its my best guess and I haven't found a workaround yet. Any tips are welcome.

1st attempt at a chunky pup cookie jar. roughly 16" tall. i haven't worked with ceramics like this so i'm nervous about cracking, but he's been covered and dying quite slowly so im hoping it works lol. will update after firing!

Title says it all really. I made 9 oil pourers and thought it I’d measured properly for shrinkage.

Realising now at the leather hard stage that the hole is definitely more than 12% bigger than the spout so I’m going to have to remake them all. No point to this post, just need some pity 😩

Is there anything else I could use this shape for so I don’t have to chuck them in the reclaim? I don’t need 9 oil pourer shaped vases 😂

(It’s not letting me post without saying what glaze I used, but I haven’t used any glazes yet)

They are supposed to become way bigger, but I’m slowly trying to increase the amount of clay I’m working with because I only made mugs and smaller bowls before.

Unglazed porcelain fired in an anagama for 4 days

Can also be used as a pen rest | Ceramic #Fish #Handmade

The last one I posted people seemed to like so I figured i’d share more of the next ones for the series!

I previously shared that I made Bunsen and Beaker mugs in my pottery class and wanted to share an update! Gonzo and Rowlf!

I’ve tried to be more consistent in some forms and sizes but I’m still experimenting into what works best! Please feel free to give me your opinions on which forms you like best! (The taller straight mugs or the rounded shaped one).
I feel like I have too many ideas and it takes me forever to choose one to paint on the clay or what to do so Id like to work on that confidence a bit more when looking into actually setting up drops and a website next year.

Clay: St Patrick’s stoneware white
Underglazes: Amaco velvet
Brushes: random lol (mostly Reeves, Japanese small mops and Raphael ones)

Hi all, I hope this question is permissible here. I teach beginner pottery, and before now, most of my classes have been one-day workshops where I do all of the processes that come after the throwing.

I’m now teaching a multi-week course where we go through each step together, throwing, trimming, surface decoration/alteration, glazing, and critique. I’ve written out a lesson plan for trimming and practiced how I will deliver the instruction, but I’m less confident that I can explain the purpose, steps, and common pitfalls of trimming as clearly as throwing. We have pretty limited time for my demo to give maximum time for students to trim, so concise and helpful instruction is super important.

When you were learning to trim, what were things your teacher said or did that helped it click for you?

My prep for the class has included watching videos of other folks explaining trimming and practicing my instruction/demonstration with a pottery friend listening, as well as everything stated above. I’m specifically asking for your experiences or perspectives on learning to trim :)

Thank you!

EDIT: Y’all are so awesome!!! Thank you so much for your thoughtful responses 🏺🩶 I love this community :)

Why did the glaze run off of the (speckled brown) clay body like this? I used a syringe of Mayco Norse blue after I dipped in the studio’s faux majolica. I allowed the faux majolica to dry before adding Norse blue. Do the two glazes just not work well together?

I'm just setting up a shop for my pottery and want to know whether it is worth signing up for Etsy Plus. Thank you.

You’re on a desert island with a bottomless supply of glazes and clay. BUT you can only have ONE kind of clay and FIVE glazes.

Forever, only these, for the rest of your life. Which will you choose?

Bonus question: What ONE special tool? (you have the basic kit already: sponge, wire, needle, angled wooden knife)

If I wanted to make an urn, and close it with ashes inside, what would be the best way, if any to go about firing it? Im sure it has been done before but I cant find any information on it.

The vase could be considered a wepon when necessary bc of its thickness, its definitely not dainty, but I'm proud of my first try!

Ok I am getting hit by the STRUGGLE BUS when it comes to monoprinting. My first attempts were awesome nearly perfect prints. Then lately despite using the same technique (at least I think so, obviously something has changed) I'm getting prints that flake off after being bisque fired. You can see in the picture just some of the flakes under the mug that immediately fell off when I touched them. In the past I've had a few flakes but nothing as bad as it's been lately. My process for monoprinting is;

1. Paint underglaze on newsprint, then let it dry.

2. Paint slip the consistency of Elmer's liquid glue onto the print

3. Immediately place it onto the leather dry mug (leather dry like Parmesan cheese)

4. Use a damp sponge to press it to the mug so there is full coverage

5. Wait a minute or two, then use a silicone rib to press harder on the print into the mug

6. Once it's dry, slowly peel off, then press lightly with fingertips any questionable areas.

Does anyone see anything wrong with my process?? Thanks in advance.

For those with a home studio, what is your table setup? Particularily if you do hand built stuff. I'm trying to get set up at home and the kitchen table isn't cutting it 😂 I was thinking of just getting some basic legs and a slab of MDF but curious to see what other people work with.

Hi everyone! I'm having some trouble with my electric kiln and was wondering if anyone has experienced something similar.

I have a Hobby Ceram Prisma 1 kiln with an HC4 controller, purchased about a year ago, with a max temperature of 1260°. I've done around 20–30 firings so far, all below 1000°C, without any issues.

Yesterday I attempted my first stoneware glaze firing, with the following settings: 1230°C, heating rate: 2°C/min, no soak at peak temperature, kiln relatively lightly loaded

I started the firing at 8 PM. By 7:45 AM, the kiln had reached 1160°C, but then it started slowing down dramatically.

By around 10 AM, it was stuck at approximately 1180–1183°C, barely increasing despite the heating indicator still being on.

I contacted the manufacturer, who advised me to stop the firing. They suggested using a heating rate of 3°C/min instead of 2°C/min, and removing one of the kiln's additional rings for future high-temperature firings.

I'm a little confused, as I assumed that a slower heating rate wouldn't prevent the kiln from reaching its target temperature.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Could this be related to the heating elements, electrical supply, or heat loss?

Also, since the kiln spent several hours around 1160–1183°C, do you think my Mayco Stoneware glazes might have matured enough, or should I expect to refire everything?

I'd really appreciate any advice! Thank you!

I used a bunch of studio glazes for these, but the effect glazes are sulfur vent yellow and Mayco dark magma. I did most of the glazing this time in a spray booth because I was teaching someone how to use the spray booth and had some other pieces I was spraying.

First time making a tree stump with a lighter white glaze and I like it! I'll probably do more with the white studio glaze!

I feel like I'm developing my tree stump style.

Anyone else making tree stumps?