I bought my Lexus TX500h last November, so it’s less than a year old.

Last week a 10yo neighbor popped a squishy while riding in the middle row captains chair and it got onto the seat and into the ventilation holes.

I tried to clean it up while it was wet, then I waited til it was dry. I’ve tried toothpicks, I’ve tried suction….am I just cooked? Is this fixable or do I need to buy a whole new seat?

F Sport Red interior

Love it. Very crisp and nice. Not a promotion or anything. Probably best $25 bucks I spent. Plug and play.

I have a Lexus too, and I really enjoy driving it. It's comfortable, smooth, and just a nice car overall.

But there's always something that could be better, haha.

For those of you who own one, what's your favorite thing about it? And what's something that gets on your nerves?

Also curious how everyone's Lexus has held up over the years. Any unexpected problems or has it been pretty reliable?

Ok, who did this parking job? Via r/mildlyinteresting 😆

90k miles for $6500. A car mechanic from my neighborhood is selling it. He has put new tires too. The car looks pretty good to me. I’m going to CARFAX it before buying tho. What do you guys think? And, what are the things I should look out for before buying?

Hello, everyone i am looking to purchase a 2013 Lexus is250 Chicago land area. It has 98k miles and body is clean for the year and mileage. However the price is 15k and some change. The dealership wont budge not even $500 off. Is it worth it or not for 15k? I like it but I’m trying to see what is an appropriate price from other Lexus owners. I also did a PPI and it came clean no codes, no rust, etc etc

So here in California, looks like Lexus is add a rebate to keep some of the EV cars under $50k (before tax and registration) so that that it qualifies for the CA $3500 rebate for first time EV buyer ($2500 if you don't qualify or for cars over $50k).

So $2486 discount + $3500 CA rebate for me, plus since I bought a car for my GF in October and still on the title + $1500 loyalty rebate + $1000 if I finance and pay it off early, and I think there's also a $1500 SDGE credit here in San Diego (it might have expired).

So for the ESe 350 Preminum, it's about $8500 off MSRP for an ESe premium, roughly $44k before tax and license.

For the RZ, there's $2486 discount + $4000 lexus cash +$3500 from the state $1500 loyalty and $1000 for financing, or $12,500 discount from MSRP.

So for the RZ, that brings the price down to $36.5k before tax and license...

That's very interesting $36k or $40ish for a commute car isn't bad. That's cheaper than a 2026 mazda miata, lol.

I hope things continue to not sell well so prices go lower further.

People who have ESe and RZ, how has the reliability and range been for you so far?

I changed the battery on my 2017 Lexus es350 and my infotainment system went blank. It blinks every 5 seconds then goes black again. Radio doesn’t work either, how do I fix this?

I have a 2013 es300h with 185k on the clock. I got the car with 50k miles in 2019 and besides oil changes, a battery, tires, and some filters I've practically had to do no maintenance to the car. It runs like a top and considering what I'd get resell for the car, it'd be more valuable to me to drive it till the wheels fall off. Still getting 35MPG

Approaching 200k I'm wondering what maintenance I should do. Ive heard mixed reviews about a trans flush on Toyotas. Any advice would be appreciated! at this point I want to put as many miles on this car as possible!

Does anyone have any advice on how to clean this off my car, I've had it washed about three times, once at the best car wash. Is this a detailing thing or is my paint ruined. It's been on there, if I am honest, for a month, because every time I wash it it doesn't come off and I have had no time in my schedule to figure out where to take it since. It's a 2019 Lexus UX 200 in gray

Hi r/Lexus!

Has anyone experienced this issue with their IS or any other Lexus from a similar generation?

I’m getting fault code C146C (Open Circuit in ABS Motor Relay Circuit) on my 2015 IS350.

I’ve already gone through the diagnostic procedures outlined in the Lexus repair manual, including the necessary wiring checks, and was able to consistently reproduce the issue.

Here’s what I’ve observed:
● ABS motor relay active test: Passed. The motor activates normally when manually triggered.
● Cold startup: The fault code returns, typically once the vehicle starts moving.
● After warming up: Clearing the code works, and the fault doesn’t return even after driving.
● Next cold startup: The issue returns once the vehicle has cooled down completely.

Based on the results of the diagnostic procedure, the repair manual recommends replacing the entire ABS actuator assembly.

However, before going down that expensive route, I’d like to know if anyone has encountered the same issue and managed to resolve it without replacing the entire assembly.

I’m particularly curious whether anyone has experienced a similar temperature-dependent failure and found an alternative fix.

Would appreciate any insights or experiences. Thanks!

Hello,

Im looking to replace all 4 shocks at home for my 2008 Lexus RX350. I know KYB is the way to go but I can't find the whole assembly, only the struts themselves. Are there any advice on how to proceed? I heard FCS quick struts are pretty good alternatives.

Stupid question but is this a power steering reservoir or brake reservoir?

I thought it was steering and looked up what I need and lexus takes some special transmission fluid instead of steering fluid so I went and bought that.

Before filling it up I wanted to double check and I see “use DOT3 fluid only” which is not what I was seeing in my searches. DOT3 is brake fluid. So is that what the car is actually low on?

Stupid question but is this a power steering reservoir or brake reservoir?

I thought it was steering and looked up what I need and lexus takes some special transmission fluid instead of steering fluid so I went and bought that.

Before filling it up I wanted to double check and I see “use DOT3 fluid only” which is not what I was seeing in my searches. DOT3 is brake fluid. So is that what the car is actually low on?

I'm comparing these cars - for the CRV, 2011 to 2014 models - prefering the latter years and for RAV4 2013 to 2014 (I also would consider a 2010 to 2012 but only V6 models).

My preference/ranking is:

1) 2012 Lexus RX 350; 2) 2010 to 2011 Lexus RX 350 3) 2013 to 2014 CRV; 4) 2013 to 2014 RAV4

I am just wondering about the 2010 to 2011 Lexus RX 350 vehicles - you know what question is coming, right? You can use 87 octane and the computer (ECM) will adjust, correct? I have read on here and on Lexus forums, that you lose a bit of hp and fuel economy but the vehicle runs fine.

The reasons for liking the Lexus - reliability/quality, quiet/smooth ride and all of that is a bit better than the Honda and Toyota SUVs. I figure the gas cost will be a bit more plus some repair costs probably more but overall, a nicer ride and probably a bit more reliable makes up for it.

IS there anything to look for other than usual PPI and the test drive?

Hey everyone,

I'm looking for some help from fellow 2023 Lexus IS 350 owners.

My vehicle is currently at the dealership for several infotainment-related issues, including an inoperative USB port inside the center armrest console.

Lexus is now claiming that the USB port has water damage, and I'm trying to understand how they can make that determination based on a visual inspection of the exterior of the port.

I'm hoping a few owners would be willing to share close-up photos of the USB ports inside their center armrest console, preferably with good lighting so I can compare their normal appearance with mine.

I'm particularly interested in:

-Whether the inside or surrounding area of your USB ports shows any discoloration, staining, or unusual markings.

-Whether anyone knows if these ports have liquid contact indicators that change color when exposed to moisture.

-Whether Lexus can reliably determine water damage simply by looking at the outside of the USB port, without removing or inspecting the internal components.

-Whether anyone has experienced a similar water-damage diagnosis from Lexus.

I'm not suggesting that water damage is impossible. I simply want to understand what physical evidence would support that conclusion and whether the appearance of my USB port is actually abnormal compared to other vehicles.

If you own a 2023 IS 350, I'd really appreciate a quick photo of your USB ports. Owners of other recent IS models with the same USB configuration are welcome to share as well.

Thanks in advance for the help!

Wife and I narrowed it down to four RX 350s.

Reliability, longevity, and avoiding expensive repairs are our main priorities.

All four have 1–2 owners and no accidents reported on CARFAX. All prices are before taxes and fees.

Red 2015 Lexus RX 350 | $19,125 | 91,717 miles

-2 owners, 28 service records
-Good maintenance, no major engine/transmission repairs documented

White 2015 Lexus RX 350 | $19,224 | 76,419 miles

-2 owners (corporate/personal), 23 service records
-Oil-change documentation gaps (2019–2022)
-Previous keyless/electrical repair; no major drivetrain repairs documented

White 2017 Lexus RX 350 | $25,216 | 81,328 miles

-2 personal owners, 19 service records
-Previously Lexus Certified, regular oil changes
-No major drivetrain repairs; recent tires, radio display, and rear bumper work

Silver 2017 Lexus RX 350 | $26,095 | 78,882 miles

-1 owner, 13 service records
-No major mechanical repairs documented; some early oil-change records missing

My main concern is long-term reliability between the 2015's 2GR-FE V6/6-speed automatic and the 2017's 2GR-FKS V6/8-speed automatic.

Which would you trust to reach 200,000+ miles with the fewest expensive repairs? Is the 2017 worth the extra money?

Planning an independent pre-purchase inspection before buying.

“Checking map disk in progress, please hold… “ when the car starts up, then quickly changes to “a program cannot be read. Please consult to dealer.”

For context, my car battery died three days ago. The gentleman who tried to help me jumpstart it crossed the jumper cables, and there was a lot of sparking, and obviously the car did not turn on. He tried another set of cables, also putting them on the wrong leads, and it kept sparking. A second gentleman came to help me with the automatic starter and put the cables on the right sides and the car started up. That’s when the actual problem started. Main problem is that my battery died and I needed to be changed. Done, easy.

As soon as he jumpstarted me, I was able to drive home, but I realized that there was no audio working on my car. I have an aftermarket Hamilton CarPlay system as my screen, and that has been working completely fine for the last year. Now, I have no audio, though the screen works fine with my Bluetooth and CarPlay. My cameras also do not work. I get the above two errors that I mentioned at the start of this post.

We tried to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and then reconnect, no good. We also found the microSD slot which I removed the card and replaced it. Also did not work. I also held down the power/volume button for 10 seconds to try to reset the car’s internal media system. Audio/camera still not working. Climate control is fine.

What are my options besides going to the dealership? I have done the above troubleshooting, but I see the dealership may take me for a run around and cost a lot of money. Do you think this all happened because the initial person switched the cables when they tried to jump me? That’s the only thing that makes sense because otherwise everything is fine. I also took it to a local body shop and all the fuses are fine.

Please help! This car is my baby!!

Both RX350h premium trim, same colors, no port add-ons. Only difference is 2027 with 21" wheels (and floor/cargo mats included lol) vs. 2026 with 19" wheels. The price difference lines up with that ($500 for the model year difference, $1600 for the tire difference).

Selling price before taxes, doc fee, title & license is $60,425 for the 2027 vs. $58,325 for the 2026.

Driver theoretically prefers the 19" wheels for the lower maintenance cost and cushier ride, but the 2027 theoretically holds more value being a later model year.

Which would you take?

Just got a 2019 ES350 and trying to figure out if the screen is customizable. The screen has the audio and fuel economy on the left side and the navigation (which does not work) on the right. The map side says “press here to use the navigation app”. Is there any way to reconfigure the screen to show something else in the navigation side or have the audio size bigger? I think that’s possible with the 12” screen but haven’t seen anything on the smaller screen. I can customize my 13 GS350 screen to some degree. Hoping this can as well

2022 GX 460
The diagrams are not really helpful
Right side in trunk area
Anyone have any part numbers?
Won’t let me post pics to the GX subreddit

I am thinking about buying a LS, I read all of the records on Lexus and the front control arms got replaced at 80k miles, however there is no service records at all for the air suspension. Should I be worried? Is it as big as an issue on a 2009 as it should be?

160k miles

May be a dumb question but currently I’m in the market for a car. I’ve been looking and I noticed that the 2013-2015 Lexus IS 350 vehicles with about 100k-130k miles cost about the same as a 2021-2024 Corolla with about 60-70k miles. Personally I would rather go with the nicer Lexus and I feel like the older cars are a little more reliable. Are there any issues you see with these cars commonly or is regular maintenance higher? I understand I will have to get a 91 or 93 Octane gasoline but I’m willing to spend a little more for a nicer vehicle. What are your thoughts on this and how has your Lexus treated you? Thanks