Two white Hue bulbs, one fully dead and one flickering. I thought “why not try?” So with a box knife, twenty minutes and some solder I saved the first one. Sweet!

On the second bulb, not so lucky. It had different guts and cold solder wasn’t the problem, only managed to get it to briefly flash when powering up. Further disassembly was not worth the effort IMHO.

No idea which generation each bulb is. These are probably close to 15 years old, and I’m fairly certain the newer bulbs have glass domes instead of plastic. Still, worth a try if you ever have the need.

Does anyone know how to set an automation in the Hue app to only have an off trigger and not an on one?

For example, if one or more lights are used in the evening, then at a certain time (bedtime) shut it/them off as a backup in case I forget. But don’t necessarily want to automate turning it/them on..it will be manually turned on if the light will be used.

I’d prefer to keep this in the Hue app and not need to make an iOS shortcut/automation but will if there’s no Hue app option.

I bought the Festivia Icicles (8.85m) no power supply. They look good, great even but I feel the quality has dipped, especially for being $630NZD. Is it worth the price, in my opinion? If you want to do an entire house, absolutely not. If you want to do a smaller side of a house like I have, sure. But I probably would never get them again.

Pros:

Brighter than expected and look great. Part of the hue eco system.

Cons:

Very expensive for what they are, quality dipped and they feel more fragile than most Hue outdoor products. Clips are pretty average and the string doesnt really clip in properly. If they get lifted up for whatever reason, the string will come out of the gutter clips.

I’ve been going coconuts every now and then when I turn on the lights in my hall, all powered by Hue, and they are all at 1%. I do not have any automation enabled, and it only applies to the hall. Kitchen & office have never done this.

I move the slider up to 50% and it’ll adhere to that for a certain amount of time, but give it a few days and it’ll randomly turn on at 1% again instead.

Has anyone also had this issue? Is there any way to fix it? There’s no point in having your hallway lights at 1% because there’s no way I can tie my shoes in that little light 😆

Is the philips hue gradient lightstrip 34 discontinued and what has replaced this? can i replicate this using the new flux strips?

I've been working on this app for a bit now. Hoping to release it in the next month or so. This is part of a test I was running tonight. Sorry for the crap audio quality, I had it running through a bluetooth speaker.

Hey everyone,

My english isnt that good so i asked AI to help me rewrite this post (it couldnt fix my problem though)...

​I'm having a really frustrating issue with my sync box:

​Hardware: Xbox Series X connected to a Philips Hue Play HDMI Sync Box 8K, passing through to an LG OLED TV. I have multiple hue lights. The gradient light strip, light bars and 2 hue signe lights

​The Problem: Whenever I play a game in Dolby Vision and then pause, go to the dashboard, or switch out of the game, things break down. Instead of smooth transitions, the Hue lights start lagging badly, turning on/off or brightening in awkward, jerky steps instead of smoothly syncing. Instead of lighting up smoothly. It goes from 10% to 30% to 50% etc etc. It doesnt look nice.

I want full Dolby Vision working properly without having to compromise on picture quality.

​Environment: My Hue Bridge is relatively close to my router, but this specific "stepping/lagging" behavior happens right after interacting with Dolby Vision content on the Xbox. (I have moved my bridge to apr 1,5 me from my router)

​Has anyone experienced this exact symptom on the Sync Box 8K? Is this a known handshake/buffer issue that can be solved with a certified 48Gbps HDMI 2.1 cable (like Ugreen), or is the Sync Box struggling with dynamic metadata switching when pausing/exiting DV?

​Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

My old printed holders for the Hue motion sensors never sat right in the ceiling, so I designed a recessed mount that works like a GU10 spot gimbal.

• Fits an 83 to 84 mm hole in drywall (9.5 to 25 mm boards)
• 3 printed parts: mounting ring with spring arms, ball with a pocket for the sensor, clamp ring
• The spring arms pull the 100 mm flange tight against the ceiling, no screws or glue
• The ball tilts about 15 degrees each way and rotates, and stays where you aim it
• Printed in PETG without supports, about 1.5 h and 47 g for a set
• Battery change: pull the whole unit down, swap the batteries, push it back in. The aiming stays

Made for the indoor sensor (the square 55 mm one). Happy to answer questions.

Hi guys,

I’m looking into the gradient pro brackets as I currently have the Gradient for PC 32-34 but I keep encountering a problem where’d they just fall out of the brackets.

Am I correct in saying the brackets for the gradient pro are designed so the light strip itself clips into the brackets? From measuring my gradient for PC light strip & measurements on google I think they’re roughly the same width so I’m hoping I can get a set of Pro brackets and use them instead. Thanks

1. Migration from Hue v2.1 to "Pro" said it was successful, but made all the lights unreachable.
   
2. After repairing 90% of lights, I say 90% bcos when repairing some others became available. I also started using a remote to put the light in pairing mode, but some just required turn off and then on. The hub worked fine for a couple of weeks... then the lights became unreachable again.

I had 48 lights, 6 remotes and 2 PIRs prior to migration.
Now I have 28 lights, 6 remote and 2 PIRs, the v2 handled the non Hue lights fine, but when I repaired to the anything but "Pro" bridge I put them on another zigbee coordinator (SLZB-06Mg26U) + z2m on a old PC.

Am I the only one with Bridge Pro issues?
I tried ch15, 20 and 25.
I moved 2.4Ghz wifi to ch 1 and 6, and put Hue on ch20 so the new zigee hub could be on ch25.

Now I'm about to add back the v2 Hue bridge bcos the Pro has been very unreliable. Just not sure if I got a dud or the Bridge Pro is complete junk. I got the "Pro" so I could add more lights, but that's not going to happen now.

My new zigbee coordinator connected to z2m has 100% reliable, and the Hue v2 had no issues. The Pro went in exactly the same place, and all I did was replace the PSU.

I've wasted dozens of hours on Hue now, the bridge pro has removed all my good will towards Hue.

Moin Leute,
ich plane gerade die indirekte Beleuchtung bei uns im Haus und würde gerne Philips Hue nehmen. Ich brauche insgesamt 22 Meter, als eine durchgehende Strecke. Sie fängt an einer Steckdose an und endet irgendwo, es ist also kein geschlossener Kreis.
Mir ist aufgefallen, dass der Hue Flux laut Hue auf maximal 20 m erweiterbar ist. Gibt es eine Möglichkeit, genau auf 22 m zu kommen?
Lässt sich das mit Verbindern oder Verlängerungskabeln so lösen, dass es nicht auffällt?
Reicht für 20 m ein Netzteil, oder braucht man zwei?
Wichtig ist uns, dass wir es per Alexa steuern können (Licht an, dimmen, Szenen wie "Alltag" und "Fernsehen") und dass es im Warmweiß richtig schön ist und sich sehr tief dimmen lässt.
Hat jemand von euch so eine lange Strecke gebaut? Über Erfahrungen und Tipps freue ich mich sehr. Danke euch!

I've just installed a brand-new round Philips Hue ceiling LED panel, and the light doesn't seem to be evenly distributed. Is this normal?

There are several visible bright rings or hotspots across the panel. Unfortunately, my phone camera isn't capturing them properly. In reality, it looks significantly worse than it appears in the picture.

I'd appreciate your thoughts, particularly if you've had experience with a similar product.

I have a 50-inch TV, a Philips Hue Bridge Pro, and the 4K Hue Sync Box. I use an Apple TV for movies and a PS5 for gaming, and I’m deciding between a Hue Flux lightstrip and a Play Gradient Lightstrip.

For anyone who has used either (or both) with a Sync Box:

• ⁠Does Flux sync well with movies and games, and how does its effect compare with the Play Gradient?
• ⁠Does the Play Gradient’s color placement around the TV make a noticeable difference, or is Flux good enough as ambient backlighting?
• ⁠Which would you choose for a 50-inch TV, and are there any fit or mounting issues I should consider?

I’m mainly hoping for an immersive movie-watching effect without the lights feeling distracting. Thanks!

I was setting up lights in my cabinet. And two shelves were working but not the top. I had connected flux connectors behind it to link them all together. I tried triaging and connecting the bottom to top etc and that worked. But now when I set it back to the original setup… the top and bottom shelf aren’t lighting up :(

I’m worried that it’s sent some electrical fault now to the middle and it won’t work. Between each test I was unplugging and replugging lights into the wall.

Anyway I can reset the power to at least try and triage one shelf and not two? The bottom was working

Since the minimum size for the play gradient lightstrips is a 55 inch TV those obvious ones are no option. So I was thinking of the flux or omniglow lightstrips since you can cut them and in a recent update they added the option to set the usage as behind a TV in the App.
I would like to use a Syncbox but I don’t know whether these lights will work as good as the gradient lightstrips.

So then I was thinking about some Playbars or the gradient lighttube but they will clearly not give as much immersion as a lightstrip behind the tv.

And then there are the newly released play table lamps and two of these could maybe handle my small tv size but I don’t think that syncing them with the TV would make sense

What’s your take on this guys? Am I maybe missing some options?

My bridge just arrived today and I set it up via the Apple Home app (not via the Philips app). I haven’t set it up as Matter.

I have created scenes that incorporate 2 lights and I manually synced them to the Home app by using the option pictured. These work on the Hue app but when I click on the scene on the Home app, it only turns one of the lights on.

Then I manually added the light into the scene on the Home app but it isn’t configured with the colour I set in the hue app.

Can anyone help?? The main reason I wanted a bridge is so I could control scenes using Siri :(

Does anyone else find it confusing that if a motion sensor sees you and turns on a light, then you disable it in the app (while the light it triggered is still on), the sensor's time-out keeps counting down and it turns off the light as usual?

Even if you turn the light off and then back on (while the sensor is off), the sensor's time-out still eventually turns it off at the same x number of minutes after it originally turned the light on — plunging you into darkness even if you're literally walking around in front of the sensor.

I'm pretty sure 0% of users who disable a sensor want it to keep manipulating the lights in any way while disabled.

Wouldn't it make more sense if disabling a motion sensor in the app (after it detected motion and turned on a light) caused it to stop doing anything at all — which in this case would mean leaving the light on indefinitely?

The way it works isn't the expected behaviour.

I suspect the bridge is counting down the time-out and the same thing would happen even if I removed the battery from the sensor after disabling it, but I'm sure a bridge firmware update could easily fix this.

In other words: it doesn't have to be this way. Just needs to be fixed in a bridge update.

Photos 1 -4 show what we are running into with the current ceilings, junction boxes, and insulation mess, while the last three photos show the old retrofit lights and box from our previous house.

Hey everyone, feeling a bit defeated and could use some advice. We just moved into a new place and I really want to use my existing Philips Hue smart lights (I have around 23 Hue downlights total from our old house, plus three 6 inch Hue slim canless lights that could technically work, but our new ceilings have 4 inch holes). It feels completely insane that I wont be able to use my lights.

The problem? Every single ceiling in this house is wired with ultra thin, canless wafer lights that connect to a remote metal junction box. There are no traditional metal cans anywhere in the ceilings. To make matters worse, the previous owner had crazy paint colors on the ceilings so we already had to get them all repainted and I completely forgot about the lights until now.

When my husband tried pulling one down, it tore up some drywall around the edge and loose insulation is packed right up around the boxes, so it immediately spills out and makes a massive mess everywhere. I honestly dont remember it being this messy when we installed our can lights at our old house, but taking just one down here made me completely second guess what kind of project this would actually turn into.

Is there any way to make our old lights work, or am I just opening up a can of worms here? Is there any workaround without cutting open all our newly painted ceilings to install metal cans or even cutting larger holes to fit those three 6 inch slim lights, or am I just shit out of luck and forced to buy a mountain of super expensive Hue 4 inch Slim Canless versions instead and try to resell what I have?

Honestly, is it even worth the hassle, or is it completely dumb to try and tackle this right now? Im only weighing it because some rooms are still empty and my painters have to come back this week to do another room, but after seeing how much mess that packed insulation makes, Im worried if I do this later on it will be more of a mess with furniture in the rooms. Any advice is appreciated!

I use Z2M with Hue bulbs, no Hue Bridge. I want a 30-minute wake-up light.

Z2M has a `sunrise` effect and an `effect_speed` setting.

1. Which value should I enter in `effect_speed` to have a 30min ramp?

2. If I'm in a middle a the "Sunrise" ramp, does turning off the bulb will stop it? Or will it turning on again a few second later (when a value change happen or when the end of the ramp is reached?)

Thanks!

I upgraded from a 4k to an 8k to get 4k120 outputs on my consoles. And while now both consoles support the option and I have everything hooked up the same way as prior. My lights no longer sync. I get video. But the lights remain at 1% on white.
I’ve tried swapping HDMIs around. Resetting everything. I can’t get sync to work.
Advice?

I had an Amazon Alexa years ago, but haven’t used it in at least 5 years.

Today I suddenly received an email from Amazon telling me that one of my Philips Hue motion sensors has 1% battery left, along with a link to buy new batteries.

I checked my Hue account and apparently Alexa still has access to my smart home data, with the last activity being yesterday.

I had no idea Amazon was still receiving this information after all these years. Thought this was worth sharing.

Check your connected apps if you’ve ever used Alexa.

Screenshots:

https://i.imgur.com/cy0tDBM.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/MI3RxxO.jpeg

I am unable to add the scene to any of my other rooms anyone know why this happens?

Edit: solved, I had to delete the rooms and re-add them

I have a light blue wall that I'd like to wash with color. There's a soffit that runs across the top (painted white) and on the underside is where I'm planning to install strip lighting. It runs a total of 15 ft. Because the light strip will be "exposed" and I want to use this as a primary lighting source for that part of the living room, I'm looking at the Omniglow as an option.

I've seen the pictures of the Omniglow on previous posts in this subreddit, and it looks bright enough and also seems to have a continuous light where I wouldn't see individual diodes.

However, I can only see a 10 ft Omniglow for internal use on the Philips website.
I can see an Omniglow that's 16ft (and cuttable?) rated for outdoor use. Is this the same light, just with more weatherproofing?

Is it more reasonable to buy two indoor Omniglows or one single outdoor use Omniglow and cut it?

If you think another light strip would be a better option, I'm willing to hear it, but overall I'm looking for something really bright where I don't have to install a channel, and will work with the bridge pro (which I assume is all of them? I'm new to this).