First of all, not a techy person, but my IT guy at work used to tell me I knew just enough to be dangerous.

Are any of the wires/cords shown in the pic an internet/fiber connection? This is in our basement and I’m almost positive we had a modem connected there when we moved in 19 years ago. We have Brightspeed fiber now with an older Eero mesh system. Our modem/router is on the first floor but I hate the location! I just upgraded to Eero Pro 6E and would love to move the main modem/router to the basement when I upgrade the mesh. Is this possible?

Sorry if this is a dumb question and thanks in advance for any help you can offer!

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for a new router for a small apartment.

The catch is that the fiber-optic connection is right by the front door, so the router has to stay in the hallway. From there, the signal will have to travel through walls to the other rooms, and I'm worried about the signal strength.

I'm currently considering two options:

• Ubiquiti Dream Router 7
• Asus RT-BE92U

The Ubiquiti has internal antennas. Ubiquiti does list their gain, but I'm not sure if the signal will be strong enough. On the other hand, the Asus has external antennas, but Asus doesn't specify the antenna gain, and based on what I've read online, people don't praise its range very much despite the external antennas.

Which of these two routers will have better range? What would you recommend, or what is your opinion?

Thanks

Hey all!

Turning to the community because I've spent way too much time troubleshooting this and could really use some advice.

Current setup:

• ISP: TDS (1 Gbps down / 25 Mbps up)
• Modem/router: Arris TG3452 (currently in router mode)
• Mesh system: NETGEAR Orbi RBK653 (currently in AP mode)
• Orbi satellites use wireless backhaul, with gaming PCs connected to their Ethernet ports.

The problem:

When I'm the only one gaming, everything generally runs fine. However, when my kids are also gaming or streaming, I experience significant latency spikes, especially in ARC Raiders.

I've also tried switching the Arris to bridge mode and putting the Orbi into router mode. For whatever reason, this made things dramatically worse, with approximately 30–50% packet loss and ping jumping to 150–190 ms when testing against Cloudflare (1.1.1.1).

Switching back to Arris router mode and Orbi AP mode makes everything playable again, although the latency issues under load remain.

Testing I've done:

• Wired speed test: ~933 Mbps down / 21 Mbps up
• Idle latency: ~13–17 ms
• Latency under load: Spikes into the 50–170+ ms range
• Waveform bufferbloat test: Grade C (+114 ms download / +40 ms upload latency)
• Wired PC pinging the Arris: ~1 ms average, 0% packet loss
• Wired PC pinging Cloudflare: Occasional spikes up to 170–227 ms, even when the local connection remains stable

What I'm considering:

ChatGPT has suggested adding a dedicated router with SQM (such as the GL.iNet Flint 2) between the Arris and Orbi to help manage bufferbloat.

I'm not opposed to buying equipment, but I want to make sure I'm actually solving the underlying problem rather than adding unnecessary hardware.

My questions:

1. Would SQM realistically help in this situation?
2. Why would switching the Arris to bridge mode and Orbi to router mode cause such severe packet loss?
3. Would you recommend adding a dedicated SQM router, replacing the modem, or investigating something else first?

Ideally, I'd like to keep my Orbi mesh system because I rely on the Ethernet ports on the satellites throughout the house.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Need advice on how to identify compromised home devices.

Based in Sydney Australia. ISP is TPG.

Symptoms:

1. Home IP is blocked by CloudFront every few days. Getting a new IP can restore the services but blocked again in a few days. For example Vodafone au website, carsales etc... Looks like all using AWS CloudFront.
2. Home IP gets reported on AbuseIPDB every few days. Even with changed new IPs. The latest IP got reported 3 times in the past 2 weeks for "Unsolicited connection to port 465", "Detected mail brute force attack from different servers", and "abuse - proxy-abuse (SSH port-forward abuse (HTTPS proxy tunnel to external host)) [abuse, proxy, ssh, ssh-tunnel]".

Current Setup (To identify the compromised devices)

1. TP Link Archer VR1600v modem router connects to ISP. Latest firmware (though EOL in Mar 2026). WIFI all disabled. No port forwarding, virtual server, vpn or anything that's open to the internet. Its IP:192.168.1.1.
2. Asus RT-AC68U installed with the latest version of OpenWRT 25.12.6 connected to Tp-Link above via an ethernet cable (the only device connected to TP-Link) No port forwarding, virtual server, vpn or anything that's open to the internet. Its IP:10.0.0.1
3. Netgear Nighthawk RAX200 (latest firmware though EOL in 2025) connected to Asus as Wifi Access Point. 10.0.0.xxx
4. TP Link RE205 Range Extender connected to Netgear RAX200 via Wifi. 10.0.0.xx.
5. All home devices are connected via Ausu, Netgear or the range extender only. All have 10.0.0.xx addresses.

A diagram showing the above:

Security Setup

1. Common abuse ports like 22 etc. are blocked for OUTBOUND in OpenWRT(Asus) and gets logged in OUTBOUND traffic logging as OUTBLOCK.
2. All OUTBOUND traffic is logged in OpenWRT and are saved to a Windows server for permanent storage.
3. ChatGPT Codex reviews the OUTBOUND traffic log every 4 hours and identify any suspicious activities and any OUTBLOCK records.
4. A schedule task calls AbuseIPDB API every 2 hours to monitor new reports of the current IP and notify me.

The Problem

1. Had this setup since 10th Oct and so far it captured zero OUTBLOCK (except my tests which showed that the capturing is working)
2. Got a new AbuseIPDB report today very specifically on port 465 scanning. But again I found no log entries on any port 465. None in the past 17 days' logs.

Haven't been blocked by CloudFront yet but will monitor it ongoingly. Every outbound connection now go through OpenWRT and gets logged. And the logs have been clean. That leaves the only possibility is the TP-Link modem router??!!

Any suggestions?

Ok my new nas aoostar wrr pro has 2 nics. Its running windows 11 because it works for me.

Its hard wired into starlink.

Can i use the 2nd nic directly with my tv?

As tv runs plex and youtube mainly.

Im fully aware starlink is a pretty shit network. I do have a full omada sysytem ill end up bringing here, but its at my other place while i reno it and get it ready for market and i have alot of poe gear there so it stays till place is sold.

Hey everyone!

I’ve been thinking about upgrading my ASUS router, which only supports Wi-Fi 4 (yeah, a relic, I know lol). I can’t decide whether to go with a TP-Link Archer or a MikroTik hAP.

Networking isn’t completely new to me — working in IT has taught me a thing or two — but I’m wondering whether a MikroTik is worth using as a daily driver at home. I’ve heard the initial setup can be a bit tricky.

My main priorities are Wi-Fi coverage and security. I’d like to segment my network into separate VLANs for trusted devices, TVs, IoT devices, and guests. From what I’ve seen, MikroTik offers much more flexibility here, while TP-Link’s consumer Archer range seems more limited to main and guest networks, depending on the model.

I’m looking at the MikroTik hAP ax² versus TP-Link Archer options around the same price range.

For anyone who’s used both: How’s the real-world Wi-Fi coverage, how painful is the MikroTik setup, and is the extra flexibility worth it for a home network?

Would appreciate your experiences and honest opinions!

hi! i just wanted to know how to change our extenders name and password via app without factory resetting it. i've tried the instructions on their app multiple times but it still wouldn't scan on my phone. is there a way for me to fix this?

Hello guys kindly help me here ,hii ni router ya client I mean hii tenda I bought it new,so inawork for sometimes then inawaka bulb zote hivo,Sasa ikiwaka hivo inakata net,nmetry kureset but the problem is still same kindly help kama unajua vile naezafanya iwe fine

Where I live there is a small community internet access provided. A number of houses have wi-fi nodes installed.
These are a 20cm disc with a LAN cable into an ISP box . exiting the house. The ISP (openreach) box has phone, port 1, optical. Optical goes to the wi-fi disc.
I do not have any router access, I only have SSID & pass for the wifi.

The speed is very good & I'd be a fool to pay for my own service when this is free.
All the houses have the same SSID & password though. (which is woefully simple & guessable)

I routinely have other peoples print jobs coming out on my printer & I'm guessing they are all able to browse my dlna movie collection on their smart TV.

What can I do on my end to stop others getting in?
I presume that would be a wi-fi bridge from an additional router to the hub disc, but im not entirely sure about the implications of DNS & IP allocation etc I do use a VPN on my devices.

Hi all - feeling very dumb here. What does the 5g mean here? Is my mesh hotspot thing not connecting to the router via wifi??

Hi everyone! I'm looking for advice on how to fix our home Wi-Fi setup. I'm not very tech-savvy, so please be kind to a newbie like me.

Back in 2021, our cable internet connection could only reach the first floor of our house. To solve this, we bought three Tenda mesh Wi-Fi units. They helped extend the internet connection to the second and third floors, and our CCTV cameras around the house were also connected through this setup.

Recently, two of the three mesh units stopped working. Because of this, we've lost internet access on the second and third floors.

To make matters worse, we can no longer access the email accounts or credentials that were originally used to set up the Tenda mesh system. We don't remember how to add or configure a replacement unit using the old account.

The only remaining working mesh unit is still connected to our CCTV cameras, and we're hoping not to disrupt that setup.

My questions are:

1. Can I keep the remaining Tenda mesh unit connected to our existing CCTV cameras and set up a completely new mesh system to restore Wi-Fi coverage on the second and third floors?

2. Would the new mesh system interfere with the old one or the CCTV cameras?

3. Is there a way to set this up without accessing the old Tenda account or resetting the remaining working unit?

I'd really appreciate any advice or recommendations on the easiest and most affordable way to fix this. Thank you!

I just realized that I bought and installed an unshielded field connector on a shielded CAT6. I use this cable for an access point in my house. Should I replace it with a shielded connector?

So I live in a rural area with my mom and she bought Att Air which has been an upgrade from our old internet router with them. It’s faster and more consistent. HOWEVER I cannot connect my switch to it and my Xbox barely reaches 14 mbps while downloading games. Xbox wouldn’t even download a game until I changed the DNS configuration. Switch is still a no go.

I have no clue what any of these things truly mean, but I think it’s because Air essentially doesn’t provide me with a unique IP address? And Xbox and Nintendo need these things? But I read somewhere that routing the internet through VPN could solve this? I have NordVPN. How can I make this work or do I need to purchase/set up something else?

Idk if it’s helpful but whenever I try to connect the switch, it says it needs registration and takes me to a Java log in page, but I don’t know the username or password or how to set one up. Please see photo.

Please also be kind. I have no background in tech or coding. This is another language to me and also very frustrating. Thank you!

I've been trying to help out a friend with getting her router set up with an SSID on a schedule so it shuts off at night. To cut a long story short her kid is smart but has medical intervention grade impulse control problems. Ended up in the hospital over playing games every night all night after mom and dad were in bed. So we want an SSID that she can connect anything to and it will just stop working during sleep time. The kicker is that we still need the iot devices like the doorbell and mom's phone to function during the blackout. Most of the scheduling features just disable the radio completely.

I've considered a second router with a kill switch but the router isn't physically secured and the kid is smart enough to click a power button.

I'm just trying to figure out the cheapest plug and play option for this, but not sure where the "it has scheduling" and the it has a guest network you can schedule apart from the main SSID line is. Any insight?

Cost is a major factor so she is looking as cheap as possible, but at this point I'm more curious for myself at what point the switch happens... Honestly I'm considering buying a unifi dream router and saying Merry Christmas.

My broadband speed is fine, but a couple of rooms still get weak Wi-Fi and buffering.

For anyone who had the same issue, what helped more: moving the router, adding mesh Wi-Fi, or upgrading the plan?

I've been trying to find the cheapest possible router that allows VLAN/VAP, Ad/malware blocking, Encrypted DNS and tools to help with bufferbloat while gaming (wired) in a 1300sq ft apartment (need wifi for phones as i get no signal in my apartment due to it having a metal roof). That can handle a 500/25mbps connection that will be upgraded to a 500/500mbps connection at some point in the future. I also didn't want to use OpenWRT, so thought my only real option was the Express 7 for $200+ or the Dream Router 7 for $300+. I'm no network expert, but can someone tell me if my thinking here (and Gemini) is correct when it comes to something like the new MikroTik hAP be lite. Since it supports opensource adblock/malware lists that means it has better adblocking and malware blocking than the Dream Router 7 for $80 only? It also supports CAKE, while the Express 7 and Dream Router 7 have a 300mbps limit on smart queueing. CAKE should have no issues Smart Shaping on a 500/25 or 500/500 connection to help with bufferbloat? I was also looking at the hAP be³ Media which is another new MikroTik router that supports running containers on it. I was originally going to buy this as i thought i needed something like AdGuard Home to get proper adblocking/malware blocking and encrypted DNS, but now that RouterOS supports the adblock/malware lists this would be a huge waste of $180 for me? Does AdGuard Home really use the same blocking lists that you can just add to RouterOS now? Can someone who has a better understand of all this confirm that my thinking/gemini is correct and the HAP Be Lite would be the perfect router for my apartment while saving me $100-200+?

Hello all,

I am planning on a big networking project for my home to install security cameras and ethernet drops to various rooms throughout the house. I plan to put my server in the laundry room. I am wondering if the amount of cameras, ethernet drops. if ap placement is adequte for my home and if my server gear is appropriate. Each ethernet wall jack will have 2 connections.

I am planning to use Cat6a S/FTP and routing most of the cables in the crawlspace underneath the house. There is some attic access above the bedrooms as well.

I am planning a camera at least on each corner of the house + 1 on the shed aiming toward the back entrance + 1 door bell.

Thanks

Hey guys,

I have a Linksys LN1301 WiFi 6 Router that's connected in the living room to the internet (Sonic) but connecting to the wifi from my room is really, really spotty and weak. I bought an Amazon Eero 6e Pro off FB Marketplace and reset the thing, and was wondering if I can place that in my room to help out with the wifi signal/strength. I'm unsure if I can have two different kinds/brands of routers to make this work, and how to actually make it exactly work if I can.

Thanks in advance and sorry if it sounds like a dumb question.

How do i fix this ? was working the first time then when i turn pc back on my adapter wasn’t working no more . The pc itself is getting internet but i’m tryna internet share to something else and it’s not working.

So I just moved into a new build and have a Spectrum fiber.

I purchased MoCa Adapter and tried this.

Modem -> Router -> MoCa adapter -> Coax -> MoCa Adapter.

But Coax didn't light up and I tried every Coax in the house but none of them were connecting adapters.

So I realized that I have 7 cables hanging outside wall and did the DIY Coax installation and connected with MoCa compatible splitter and plugged them into all OUT ports. Nothing in IN port since I'm just connecting it from the modem. But still not connecting MoCa adapters.

Am I still missing a step or is there something else outside of my control that I need to call an electrician?

🧠 Los dos pilares técnicos de sping

¿Por qué funciona sin sudo siendo más avanzado?
El comando ping tradicional surgió cuando los sistemas operativos exigían abrir un socket RAW para enviar un paquete ICMP Echo Request. Como estos sockets permiten falsificar cabeceras y observar la red, Linux exigía privilegios de administrador. Para evitarlo, el binario clásico suele usar el bit SUID (se ejecuta como root oculto), lo que supone un riesgo de seguridad.
sping lo resuelve desde la base:
Emplea sockets de datagramas ICMP sin privilegios (net.ipv4.pinggrouprange), una función moderna del kernel de Linux con soporte nativo en macOS y Windows.
En lugar de pedir acceso completo a la tarjeta de red, solicita al kernel que gestione el envío del paquete ICMP de manera segura en el espacio de usuario.
Resultado: sin riesgos por escalada de privilegios, ejecución limpia en contenedores Docker minimalistas y cumplimiento de las directrices de seguridad actuales.

¿Por qué es tan brutalmente eficiente?
El ping clásico suele ser síncrono y lineal: envía un paquete, aguarda el tiempo de espera y luego lanza el siguiente. Si se intenta un ping masivo a múltiples IPs con un script en Bash, el sistema debe abrir docenas de procesos en paralelo, saturando la tabla de procesos.
sping aprovecha la arquitectura moderna de Rust:
Motor asíncrono con Tokio: usa un bucle de eventos ligero. No genera un hilo del sistema operativo por cada host; gestiona miles de objetivos en paralelo dentro de un único proceso mediante tareas virtuales muy eficientes (Green Threads).
Gestión de memoria sin coste: Rust elimina la necesidad de un recolector de basura. sping determina con precisión su uso de memoria en tiempo de compilación. Por ello, al vigilar decenas de servidores simultáneamente, su consumo se mantiene en unos ~4 MB de RAM y el uso de CPU es inferior al 1%.