Bought this house and there is this short section of fence that was built before we bought it. It’s been unfinished for about 6 months. I am planning on extending the fence all the way around the house and copying this design.

I do like the design in general but I am worried they used non PT wood for the thinner strips. What do you all think? And if so, should I replace them? Looked at Home Depot and couldn’t find any PT in this size.

We want to get vinyl fence in Central Florida and it’s 89ft of fence. We’ve gotten quotes from 2 companies that both have great reviews and seem very similar.

Company 1: $2800 uses Catalyst brand
Company 2: $3400 uses Homeland

Is there a big difference in quality between the 2? We plan on being in this house for a while so we don’t want to have to redo in a few years. But I haven’t been able to find much on them.

Any advice is appreciated!

About to install ~300 ft of fence around our backyard and debating between PT wood and PostMaster for the posts and gate hardware.

Material price difference is roughly ~$4500 between the two, with wood estimating at ~$7500 and PostMaster posts, gate posts, and welded frames coming to ~$12000.

Part of the struggle is finding gate hinge hardware to attach to the square tube PostMaster Gate Posts (not the U shaped line posts) for a 5 ft wide gate and a 10 ft double driveway gate (2x 5 ft sections).

The super premium is the ShutIt Badass face mount bolt on hinges, but these are $160+ each and we need 10 hinges.

Majority of the butterfly hinges or adjustable T-bolt hinges I'm seeing have gate weight ratings of like 40-45 lbs and don't seem like that's enough for a metal gate frame covered with wood pickets.

What hinges and latch hardware are you all using for PostMaster gate posts and larger gates (5ft+)?

Moved to the country and needed to have something to keep our dog contained and provide some privacy. I've never built a fence before so this was a fun project to learn a new skill. Because we live in a "very severe fire hazard zone" I opted for galvanized panels to reduce the amount of wood used. I also had to go with zero flammable materials to meet additional fire hardening requirements so the first 5 feet on each end is aluminum rail and posts and the rest is treated 4x4 and 2" redwood. Everything in the dirt is set 24" into the soil and what's on the concrete is secured with Simpson ez-posts. Nominal height is 6' and the total length is ~130' with a 5' gate on either end. Total cost was roughly $5k including tools, at the start of this project all I had was a basic toolbox and a cordless drill lol. Total install time was about a month, though that includes 7 days of zero work while the concrete cured and 2 more days I couldn't do anything due to rain. I know it isn't perfect but would love to hear some feedback!

Hello all, I just built my first welded deer fence with pipe and am wondering what I might need to improve on and what you think it’s worth per foot.

It’s schedule 40 pipe. 1 1/2” for the verticals and 1” for the top rails. I welded it all together as well as the panels.

Also built the gates. Constructive criticism is welcome.

Another successful project

I am looking at building a fence line across our back yard to seperate the back yard and what will be a small pasture for my son's 4H cattle. The property already has woven wire fence on wood posts and t-post around the perimeter.

My plan would be to use 2-3/8" drill pipe as posts and have 5 strings of high tensile that would stretch about 280' in a straight line. The ground is not flat and has several humps that I feel would make stretching woven wire difficult. I would also plan to electrify 2 of the wires.

What type of options do I have with attaching the wire to round metal pipe without them slipping/moving on the pipe? I would need some or all of the wires isolated if I am going to add electricity to any of them. I have not purchased any posts or fencing yet, but I do have access to most tools needed to drive posts, dig post holes, stretch fence and wire.

Metabo HPT 2-in x 0.113-in 21 -Degree 6d Stainless steel Ring Shank Collated Framing nails 1000 -Per Box
$100

or

Grip Rite: 2 in x .113 in Gauge 21° Plastic Collated 316 Stainless Steel Ring Shank Round Checkered Head Framing Nails 1000 per Box
$160

Had a fence installed last week. Bolt into nothing but the outer plank and not into the post. They sent repair guy and this is result. In my mind not the way I’d do it but is it acceptable?

Anyone able to give some advice on this? Based in the UK

i want to replace my backyard fencing all around. i share it with 4 neighbors.

how to approach splitting the cost and handling styling preferences with 4 parties?

i already got a quote for my perimeter and shared that with them. they said they will get back to me but they prob wont until i inquire again.

Hello all,

I am a first-time homeowner and have very, very limited knowledge about fence building. I just want to know if this is possible.

My main question is, is it possible to build a fence in my backyard using parts from another, acquired fence?

I have people that can help me build it, but I just wanted to know if I could use these materials or are they too rotted? The posts seen lying on the ground under the deck are covered in sand from the sand filled umbrella on the deck. It is not mold.

Some details: large acquired privacy fence was put up and used for less than a year. Homeowner let us take it down before they put their house on the market, and I took the scraps to my house where it has been sitting for about two years. Basically, The fence was practically new and my hope was to build this fence in my backyard.

Thank you all so much for your help.

Here’s a small job from this week. Bonus doggy nose if you zoom in between gate and post

The contractor used this for a fence. It seems to be untreated? Had it stained but it rained a few times in the last two weeks since install and needs to be shaved down multiple times already. I'm concerned about the longevity of it as it warps and expands from moisture.

I have a home where the fence is varying ages from being built in 2023, 2024, and 2025 due to the community being built around me. I want to use a semi solid stain in a lighter honey color cedar but I'm worried the stain won't match even with cleaning. Thoughts? Does anyone have experience with fences of varying ages and matching stains? I'm told I should only be using solid if I want it to match. I have fence lighting around the yard and want to use lighter because it looks best. With darker colors the fence absorbs the light which is happening in the weathered fence section. Thanks for your help.

We need opinions -- should we have them face it the correct way? Doesn't this layout make it look like it is ours? We took care of the fence for 30 years with ours facing the same way.

Been working around an old fence we got with the house. Taken out a half dozen posts so far. The original owner was a lineman and the entire thing is built with true dimensional lumber sawmilled from telephone poles.

So it was time to rebuild my fence and I decided to add a 6' section that would fold down into a bar/counter top. Why I'm sure many will ask, I host block parties and we close off the street pictured here and get a large gathering. I don't want all kinds of people coming into my back yard due to liability issues. So, I did this, a walk up counter that I can serve the bbq'd yummies from. It's built using redwood and the counter is framed up with 2x4 to hopefully reduce wood warping. So far so good!

A special thank you shout out to the SFR who built it!!

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This is likely the original fence that is 20 years old and put in by the original community home builder. Area is desert / dry climate with not much rain. Had some unusual gusts of wind and noticed some of the horizontal support beams that run near the bottom of the fence came loose and are starting to deteriorate, I've decided to buy redwood to replace those. Should I bother using a combo stain / sealer on the new wood pieces or on the old fence? I don't know how often if ever the previous owner applied stain or sealant to the fence, it looks stained but the pickets that get a lot of sunlight are faded grey. Most of the fence is above soil and some of the pickets touching the ground are deteriorating a bit but the posts and rest of the fence seems really strong and stable.

So i am installing a cube sauna in this space. About 2 feet off side fence and about 3 inches from the back fence and the concrete step. I need access along the long side to work on the sauna/roof of it and then also have to put the fencing back.

I have access along the back side and to me it only looks like the 4x4 posts are concrete and the 2x4 verticals are just in the ground.

How would you remove the fencing and put them back the easiest? Seems doing it now by row is just crazy. I want to screw 2x4s into the sides of the 4x4s, screw the horizontal boards into the new 2x4, use the oscillating tool to slice vertically through horizontal boards, creating a panel of itself. Then I can go on the backside of the fence after Im done and screw the 2x4s back into the 4x4s.

Installed a gate a year ago and noticed that with the rain it would sag until it dried up. Now it’s just permanently sagging weight the rain. Did I brave this correctly?

Going to install an anti sag kit to fix