Hey guys,I have this boat to do but I’ll be honest I’m mostly automotive so I’m really not sure what this would need. Does anyone know what key blank this takes?

This is an old trunk case, It is in unlocked state, I can't find it's keys. So I wanted to know if it is simple generic key that I can get locally made? It's from North Indian brand, from 70's or older.

I can simply use the padlock option given, but curious if the included lock be salvaged?

We recently converted an investment property to have three points of entry. One of them is on the side of the house and the renter has to enter through an outdoor yard door. Currently it has a latch and opens only from inside. How do I make this accessible from outside in a more secure manner? I have Yale locks for the main doors. But I need something for the outside. I’m in Washington state and it rains all the time. Was looking for something with a key fob and not too pricey.

Buying a house for the first time and looking for good options to "replace the locks" as one of the first purchases and upgrades to the home. I'm hoping options exist for keyless entry deadbolts that have zero wifi capability but do offer key card or key fob through RFID or Bluetooth. Anybody know if anything like that exists? I figuee 10-15 years ago those options were much more prevalent than today but still hopeful that something like what I'm looking for exists.

My wife had this from her father, gave it to our kid and they have now lost the key. There’s sentimental value so my wife would prefer I not just cut it off. If I go to a local shop could they open it without cutting it off / could I probably get a key from them that would work? Thanks!

So my brothers set this door lock a few months ago.

Today i didn’t notice that the other half of this door lock had its lock tapped on and i pulled it now its lock.

I tried to use its keys but it seems like the maker of this door lock made it that whenever its been locked from the other side, the place where the key is inserted through the lock will also make another metal inside it so the keys wont work

My ex had these hidden all over my house. He was up to no good but I have no idea what. Sorry there's so many...

Does anyone know where this small bushing ring part goes on a Dorma commercial door lock? One side is keyed and the other has a push button lock. The small piece fell out when I was removing the keyed side handle.

Hey guys, I’m currently trying to replace a one-hole doorknob at my workplace and they keep ordering doorknobs meant for three-hole doors. The brand is Lynn Hardware. This one says it’s thru bolt posts are removable, but whenever I try sticking a screwdriver down there or unscrewing it with a money wrench, there’s no give. I don’t see any clarity on this issue provided in the directions either, but I attached a picture of them in case I’m missing something. What is the solution? Any help would be appreciated🙏🏾

My boss suspects a door at work has been tampered with, as it kinda looks like something is shoved into the lock. I think it’s part of the lock. The door is connected to a badge reader and only unlocks for a few seconds after it scans your badge. Right now it’s unable to unlock the door. I don’t think anyone even uses a key on this door. I have tried looking for that triangle logo but I can’t find anything. Can yall tell me about this lock? Is the weird shape of the keyhole a feature or is something actually broke off in it? What brand is it?

I have been trying to install a new smart deadbolt but I kept getting error messages about the lock being jammed because the hole in the frame was too shallow for the deadbolt. Not a big deal, I have the tools on hand to make it deeper. The problem is I can’t go any deeper because of this metal security plate on the inside of my door. You can actually see where I damaged it because my husband didn’t believe me when I said I was hitting something metal. I’m approx. 1/4” shy of where I need to be.

I was just going to use my old deadbolt and buy a smart lock that can retrofit, but apparently the lock has never locked properly because it also extends too far for the hole. I can’t find any locks that have a throw of less than 1” to use instead. This isn’t a problem of needing a shorter backset, I actually have to use the longer backset so the deadbolt is centered in the bore hole. The edge bore is centered on the door so there is no way for me to move it to one side or the other to try and avoid the metal as you can see in photo 2.

Should I just take the metal plate off and add a little piece of wood behind it so there is more material to drill into? Have I missed a deadbolt that has a shorter throw? I’m at a loss for what to do at this point.

So today my elderly parent had a physio session and they put the door on the snib while they went out to the garden together. When they arrived back they found that the Yale snib had fallen and jammed the door, making it impossible to open with the normal key.

By the time I got there and was made aware of the situation that they were locked out, a locksmith had already been called. I didn’t get a chance to source/call one myself which was frustrating as I’ve heard of various locksmith red flag scams and could have potentially found a more reputable one to have avoided this situation entirely!

The guy drilled the lock open, then once we were back inside he gave 3 different price options for locks (ranging from £100 - £200 for each side!) the Astra one being the middle “high security” option that was apparently the same kind of lock as the one we’d just had taken off.

He told us these Astra keys would not be able to be copied/cut from a regular key place e.g Timpson and would need to go through the website to get additional ones cut. The lock has been installed now, it does function as normal and we have been given multiple keys for it.

My main questions -

1. Should I get the lock replaced by a different locksmith? Already had to pay £600 today so reluctant to pay anything further but I don’t know whether to be concerned about the quality of the Astra lock and I don’t want getting any future keys to be a pain, especially if they’re going to be expensive to order. Plus this Astra website looks like a scam. https://astra-security.co.uk

2. The bill was paid via credit card on the guy’s card machine he had with him so I can charge back, however i’m concerned now that he knows where my vulnerable family member lives he may come back if he realises? Any lock-related advice appreciated!

Where in NYC can you buy a new lock for a community USPS cluster box unit?

My front door has an antique lockset. The round portion where the key is inserted has begun to spin when attempting to turn the key. The bolt also does not full-retract when the key is turned and the key often gets stuck and is difficult to remove from the lock. What do I need to do here? Is there something I can do to get it to be functional again? Failing that, can part of the locket be replaced in order to.leave as much of the antique one as possible? Many thanks In advance.

Hi to who ever reads this i buy vehicles without keys once a month or once every couple of months I was wondering if it would be a good investment to buy the equipment to make them myself and what would be the best setup with out breaking the wallet .

Edit the vehicles I buy are 2015 and older ford, chevy, dodge, toyota and honda

The button to lock the door on this old Schlage knob is stuck, and I am assuming I need to take the knob off from the inside to inspect and repair it. However, I cannot figure out how to remove the knob or cover. The screws on the ring have metal caps over them and are not accessible. The divots on the side of the handle that some sources say to press to remove the lock are not holes - just shallow divots. I can't see any other mechanism to remove the lock.

Is there any secret way other than brute force?

My deadbolt works smoothly with the door open but binds when the door is shut. If I shift the door slightly while turning the thumbturn, the bolt moves. The strike plate shows some rubbing, and the gap around the door is uneven.

I'm looking at the Lockin Veno Solar Palm mainly because it uses palm-vein recognition. I know a smart lock won't fix a door alignment problem, so I want to figure out the binding before choosing a model.

Would you check for hinge sag, strike-plate misalignment, or pressure from the weatherstripping first? Would you fix the binding before installing a motorized lock?

I lost a key so I'm trying to replace the cylinder. I have remove the screw but unable to slide it out. I tried rotating the knob and applying some pressure but it doesn't move it.

I'm hoping this is at least as entertaining as it was exasperating for us....

I don't think this breaks a set of rules here, but if it does- I'm terribly sorry- I'll just be ordering what it might be and take the loss.

There is a hand built battery backup unit at work that, nicely, has an included smoke alarm- that is at least over 10 years old.

It is fairly thick gauged steel. We'd honestly like to not damage it... but that smoke detector needs to go. Beep.

The keyway itself is underneath a lip. Why? I don't know, I'd love to ask the guy that built it instead of buying, but he's long gone. Can basically fit your fingers in and under but not easily.

An impression of the keyway showed it was almost 'D' shaped- not a rectangle- but one side was pushed out further. Getting a dental mirror to look at it tomorrow.

The IT guy won rock paper scissors and raked it with a bent pick and said the inside felt like a triangle. 3 distinct regions opening up and out.

Both of us have racked our brains and the only thing we can come up with is ... a heavy equipment key. Why/how that would be on a hand built fire proof enclosure with batteries? None of us have an idea.

So before we go ordering one- are there dimensioned drawings we can try 3D printing it, or filing down something to fit? Any idea why this would be on a battery system? Is that a common thing? We haven't had a forklift in ... 20 years I'm told.

Tractor Ignition Key # 83353 

The handle is missing. The window slides open but I can’t lock it. What lock handle will fit this?

Does anyone know of a padlock that has an LF12, t tumbler compatible keyway?

Bonus if you know of one of the ball-style trailer tounge and or 5th wheel pin locks with similar compatibility.

I know they're not the most secure, but I'm trying to be able to match my car's rack system for convenience.

Just so you know my level of understanding, I have reordered the tumblers in a bunch of random cores (rekeyed?) that I've picked up for free rather than pay exorbitant money for matching cores from Thule and I can rekey kwikset locks. I also make a key, I don't know what the proper term for it would be, that is a combination of my specific key and a control key, so it aligns all of the tumblers and the retaining tumbler at the end (I don't know if that's the proper term, but would love to know!)... I'm FAR from a professional but do have a VERY basic understanding of locks.

Thank you everyone!I have much respect for your profession!

I rekeyed a Euro cylinder on a storm door today with the aid of a super helpful video. I'm not a locksmith and I'm not connected to the videomaker in any way. I'm providing this link as an aid to other non-locksmiths like me.

The way to rekey is patiently explained with close-up shots and good advice that will save a lot of time and frustration. The sample is a Schlage but I rekeyed a Kwikset the same way.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqZPe6OOoWg

I have an lockable drawer in my desk that I use to store documents in. When I went to open it with the key (see picture 2) it wouldn't open. My guess is that I applied too much force. When I looked into the lock mechanism I saw a protruding piece of metal in the (see picture 3) that wasn't there before. As I far as I can tell this piece of metal is blocking the lower bit of the key to properly enter the mechanism now. I have unsuccessfully tried to push it down with a screwdriver. Any advice?

I was in a rush just now and absentmindedly jammed the key to my office into the door lock of my 1998 ford. I tried turning it and wiggling it because I didn’t know what the issue was until I realized it was the wrong key. Then when I pulled it and tried my real car key on the door, it wouldn’t budge. I tried inserting it in a bunch of different ways, turning gently, turning with force. Nothing. It won’t unlock the car door. I can still get into the car on the passenger side but that’s super annoying and it’s the only way to get into the truck.
Any advice? Is this something that I could possibly fix at home or do I need to call a professional? It was a such a quick mistake! I didn’t think it would have such a big effect on the lock!
TIA

Got this beverage fridge about 9 years ago and never used the lock. For some reason the lock won’t work now. I took off the latch hoping to see inside but I have no idea how to remove it. I wanted to just buy a replacement cam lock.